A STYLE REVOLUTION: OSCARS 2013

As the Awards Season draws to a close, this year’s Oscars can boast its fair share of drama: unexpected wins, history-making moments and a coup de theatre via The White House that took everyone by surprise.
While the action on stage never seemed to take pause for breath, the pace of the red carpet was just as thrilling: even from the first arrivals, it was clear that sartorial surprises would be the theme of the night.

Anne Hathaway, one of the big winners of the night (and throughout this Awards Season), not only turned up in a different dress, but one made by a different designer. Touted as being one of the actresses expected to turn up in Valentino, Hathaway made a switch at the last minute, opting for Prada.
The pale pink gown, paired with Tiffany jewels, looked to be inspired by her post-Les Miserables crop. The simplicity of the cut, with the heavy-duty satin, referenced Sixties starlet with a modern twist. Unfortunately for Hathaway, making a last-minute switch with her gown yielded mixed praise from the fashion pundits. Wearing satin is a gamble: a notoriously difficult fabric to work with, it is also tricky to wear without puckering or creasing. The gown, though not without its charms, looked like a last minute decision: the styling looked rushed, with the jewellery chosen not working with the high neckline. Luckily for Hathaway, this was her big night, and when you have a gold statuette as your chief accessory, nothing else really matters.

The pale trend continued with both Charlize Theron and Oscar winner Jennifer Lawrence both opting for Dior Couture. It was a brilliant night for the French couture house, with Raf Simons ably demonstrating how to dress two very different women. Theron, a red-carpet regular, appeared in a piercingly-white two piece, with a beaded peplum detail. Matched with Theron’s new pixie cut, it was cool, sophisticated and modern couture at its best.

But if you wanted full-on drama, Jennifer Lawrence’s Dior gown offered it up in spades. The fitted three-quarter bodice flowing into a voluminous skirt photographed beautifully both on the carpet and at the ceremony. It never seemed to overwhelm Lawrence, even though it did at one moment threaten to halt proceedings when Jennifer slipped on the steps when collecting her award. Epic in scale, and impressive from every angle, it was a gown that endowed the winner with authority and elegance: for an actress taking her career to the next level, this dress was an inspired choice.

Nude shades got a lift when early arrival Jessica Chastain appeared on the carpet in a copper-toned gown by Armani Prive. Expertly beaded to enhance her best features, Chastain wisely accessorised with a maroon-coloured lip and softly-waved hair. It had all the Old Hollywood references you could wish for: combining traces of Veronica Lake and Ava Gardner, Chastain oozed glamour but her no-nonsense styling kept it contemporary.

Someone else who got the ‘softly softly’ memo was last year’s winner for Best Supporting Actress, Octavia Spencer. Staying loyal to one of her favourite designers, Tadashi Shoji, Spencer worked the pale and interesting trend to perfection. Wearing a nude beaded chiffon gown with a stole sweeping across her shoulders, Spencer looked every inch the returning star.

But where some chose to tread lightly, others decided to dazzle with colour and depth. Naomi Watts, nominated for ‘The Impossible’, arrived in a gunmetal gown by Armani Prive. With the asymmetric neckline looping around Watts’ shoulders, this was a directional look not for the faint of heart. Thanks to the attention to detail customary with Armani Prive, this beautifully-worked gown was no gimmick, but one of the most memorable looks of the night. You had to wonder if those who played it safe regretted their choice when seeing Naomi.

Red is always a red-carpet favourite, and it made a comeback with nominee Sally Field and presenter Jennifer Aniston appearing in scarlet Valentino. Aniston made a rare departure from her usual modus operandi of black and figure-hugging to venture into the world of couture. Her strapless gown, with typically Aniston low-maintenance styling, was unexpected, but showed that Jennifer is not a one-note fashionista.
Sally Field also impressed with a Valentino attention-grabber. Softly gathered at the waist, the long-sleeved gown was age appropriate without piling on the years. Covering up can sometimes be misconstrued as ageing up, but the sheerness of the sleeves and the emphasis by Valentino on fitting the fabric close to the body, made this nominee one of the evening’s Best Dressed.

There is always one attendee who’s happy to stand out in a crowd, and this year that person was Kerry Washington. Already proving to be one to watch after a sartorial grand-slam this Awards Season, Washington turned up to the Oscars in a coral gown by Miu Miu.
Taking the Sixties as her trend reference, this beaded bodice with column skirt was a fresh wash of colour, on a carpet where everyone else seemed to be wearing red, black or nude. Already accomplished at picking the best of the runway, this was a textbook red-carpet appearance for a woman known for her love of fashion, and the good news for Kerry is that the feeling is mutual.

Another attendee who bucked the trends was Jennifer Garner. At the Awards to support husband Ben Affleck, Garner had a fine line to tread. Wanting to dress with gravitas appropriate for the wife of a nominee, but not to draw attention away from him, striking the right balance can be almost impossible.
Thankfully, Jennifer made the right call with a plum-coloured gown by Gucci. From the front, the gown was a strapless column; but the back was covered with gloriously effervescent ruffles. A dress built for business and pleasure, this was a fun take on the traditional ‘supportive wife’ outfit. Paired with a stunning platinum diamond collar by Neil Lane, Garner’s was one of the stand-out looks of the night.

While some of those attending fell short of our expectations, there were some surprises that made this Oscars red carpet one of the most interesting in years. Some took risks, others upgraded their style and others just went all out to impress. Those who dared to be different made the biggest impact, choosing gowns that hinted of Oscars past and Oscars future. The vast majority of looks fell wide of the fashion radar, with many choosing to bypass trends altogether, opting for gowns that inspired and flattered. Rather than trying to dress to trend, the Best Dressed of the night wore gowns that defied categorisation making for a red-carpet that was bold, beautiful and full of intelligent choices. Invigorating and proudly individual, this year’s red-carpet bore witness to a style revolution.

HELEN TOPE

SIMPLICITY ITSELF: OSCARS 2012

When it comes to awards ceremonies, not all red-carpets are created equal. Now in its 84^th year, the Academy Awards is, and remains, the benchmark by which all other events are measured.

With the knowledge that the world is watching, the pressure to get it right can be immense. Some stars avoid the glare of the fashion spotlight by playing it safe; others replay their best fashion hand with looks seen before. But those who make the headlines (in a good way), balance a little risk against a fail-safe marker – and that can be anything from a colour to a favourite silhouette. This is the strategy we saw in abundance at this year’s Oscars: a touch of the familiar, with a flash of unexpected genius, made for a very stylish carpet.

With a stunning appearance at the Golden Globes already under her belt, you would think that Angelina Jolie would have nothing left to prove. But you would be wrong. Jolie showed up in a black velvet gown from Atelier Versace, slit to the thigh with pleated panels on the bodice. It was a masterwork of seduction; no-one in Hollywood does smart / sexy quite like Angelina. Her winning formula of reveal and conceal makes her not only one of the Best Dressed of the night, but downright intriguing. Channelling old-school glamour with a twist of modernity, this was Jolie’s best look of the season.

Intelligent choices were all over this red-carpet, with Gwyneth Paltrow stunning everyone in a stark, white gown and cape from Tom Ford. In theory, this could have gone horribly wrong, but Ford’s gift for precision and restraint made this outfit a beautiful example of postmodern glamour. As already demonstrated by Rooney Mara and Tilda Swinton, there is an appetite for gowns off the beaten track: spare, elegant forms without a flounce in sight. This modern way of approaching red-carpet dressing looks set to become the rule rather than the exception: ruffles and bows for night-time don’t sit quite right at the moment. Indulging your inner girl feels more appropriate to daytime with Louis Vuitton and Prada giving us plenty of ideas on how to do pretty.

In terms of eveningwear, bold, sleek shapes channel a political consciousness that’s purely interested in showing up, not showing off. Gwyneth, picked by many as the evening’s Best Dressed, had clued up on the style zeitgeist: her choice was undeniably beautiful but its simplicity left Paltrow looking calm, relaxed and approachable. This style code feels like a better fit on Gwyneth, who in the early part of her career struggled to find her groove. But this stab at sartorial greatness turns Gwyneth into a very modern style icon: cool, confident and above all, contemporary.

Very few people did sequins for the Oscars, but those that did, applied them with wit and verve. Rose Byrne’s midnight-blue gown from Vivienne Westwood made her one of the red-carpet stand outs. Epic detail was reined in by a sleek, one-shoulder design and a touch of Westwood tailoring. This many sequins should cause the dress to droop, but it stood firm thanks to a corsetry that kept the shape of the dress intact. It was a comforting hit of sparkle (for those who feel a red-carpet isn’t the same without it), and Rose’s profile soared in what was a very modern re-working of a red-carpet classic.

Jessica Chastain, nominated for her role in ‘The Help’, also took her brand to the next level in a career-making turn wearing custom-made McQueen. A black strapless gown overlaid with intricate gold embroidery saw Jessica; in sartorial terms at least, go toe-to-toe with Angelina and Gwyneth. Paired with beautifully-judged make-up and tousled hair, this was a look belonging to someone who is destined to become an even bigger star. Someone with this much confidence at this stage in their career cannot help but excel – Jessica is one to watch.

Some of those attending did opt for colour in what has been a curiously monochromatic awards season: Natalie Portman in vintage Dior, Emma Stone in Giambattista Valli and Michelle Williams in Louis Vuitton – all three went for shades of red.

Williams’ gown in particular divided the critics: a strapless gown with soft, horizontal ruffles and a peplum detail at the waist was a winning choice but possibly not on Williams. Like Paltrow, Williams is most in her comfort zone when she goes simple. Some of her best red-carpet moments have been in dresses of deceptive simplicity.

Others attending chose to tread a well-beaten path. Meryl Streep chose the good-luck charm of previous Oscar winners and went for gold in eco-Lanvin. Like Sandra Bullock (Marchesa, 2010) and Charlize Theron (Gucci, 2004), Streep got her award dressed head-to-toe in gold.

Livia Firth’s good work at the BAFTAs in encouraging A-listers to participate in the Green Carpet Challenge was confirmed in earnest at the Oscars. French fashion-house Lanvin used eco-certified fabrics to dress the Iron Lady. Stepping up to collect the third Oscar of her career, Meryl looked softly glamorous. It was a truly Oscar-worthy choice.

If there was anything to take away from this awards season, it was a renewed appreciation of the simple things. A good cut, a plain colour won out time and again over flashier designs. It may be something to do with the types of films making it big this year: the grand-ambition projects or the small art house films that end up stealing your heart. But whatever is causing it, there’s a real call to arms to those who want real, honest-to-goodness sophistication.

Whether you like your red-carpet to shine, or be beautiful in a more subtle way, what’s very clear is that modern glamour – in all its grown-up glory – is here to stay.

HELEN TOPE

THE ELEMENT OF SURPRISE: BAFTAS 2012

While the cold weather may have prevented some from making the trip to Covent Garden’s Opera House, some hardy souls braved the British winter to make a splash on the BAFTA red carpet.

Traditionally the place for Hollywood’s elite to explore their fashion B-side, what actually emerged in its place was the surprising trend of eco-fashion: once seen as a sartorial sideliner, the BAFTAs may have gone a long way in changing the way we look at green fashion.

Viola Davis, Michelle Williams, Michael Fassbender and Colin Firth all went for the eco option. Viola Davis appeared in a salmon pink Valentino – the very first gown from the Italian label to be made from recycled materials – and Michelle Williams’ custom-made gown from H&M was made using eco-friendly fabrics. Both Michael and Colin sported tuxedos from Giorgio Armani made from organic wool, with the recycled jacket accents originally starting life as plastic bottles (PET). Taking part in the Green Carpet Challenge to wear sustainable fashion to red-carpet events, these stars made a compelling case for eco fashion to be taken much more seriously. This was one red-carpet event with plenty of heart.

Persuaded to go green by Colin’s wife, Livia, who has actively championed green fashion, the eco trend is one we could see a whole lot more of in future events, as Livia has reported today on www.vogue.com that following a trip to the recent couture shows, Karl Lagerfeld has shown interest in exploring eco fabrics. With YSL’s Stefano Pilati and Giambattista Valli reportedly wanting to explore eco options, the profile of green fashion is set to soar.

But the biggest surprise of the night was undoubtedly Michelle Williams arriving in a custom-made gown by H&M. Specially designed for the star, nominated for ‘My Week with Marilyn’, Michelle’s gown was high-street chic on a grand scale. This gown, though not officially part of the store’s Conscious Collection, was a bespoke creation following the same principles of responsible sourcing and production. With an exquisitely-fitted ivory bodice and black skirt with a corsage detail at the waist, Michelle pulled off a fabulous fashion coup. After all, where better to flaunt your high-street credentials than the UK?

Other stand-outs of the night included Tilda Swinton in icy-white Celine. With clean, crisp lines and minimal accessorising, this was red-carpet dressing for the 21^st century. Swinton, nominated for ‘We Need to Talk about Kevin’, is always odds-on favourite to wow us with an avant-garde choice. The Celine two-piece did not disappoint.

Jessica Chastain, Christina Ricci and Gillian Anderson came dressed to thrill in gowns brimming with metallic detail. Chastain’s beautiful pleated gown from Oscar de la Renta was the perfect match for her delicate features, and Gillian Anderson went for rich opulence in a gold vintage 1956 gown from Sybil Connolly. Ricci looked like she was pre-empting the Oscars in a deep gold plunging dress from Givenchy.

The turn-out for cinema’s biggest names was somewhat down on last year, but those who did attend found themselves at a memorable night with ‘The Artist’ scooping many of the major awards, and Colin Firth himself performing an act of gallantry by rescuing Meryl Streep’s lost shoe, creating serious headline wattage across the world. In nights like these that are sharply choreographed, the element of surprise, both on-stage and off,  serves to remind us that while BAFTA may be smaller than your average awards ceremony – it’s perfectly formed.

HELEN TOPE

IN PRAISE OF…COUTURE

While the rest of us struggle with the January blues, fashion is firmly in 2012 with couture season ending this week in Paris. Traditionally worn by socialites, couture’s fanbase has somewhat shifted over the years, taking in new pockets of wealth from around the globe.  Once described as a dying art, haute couture has had a new lease of life in recent years with Hollywood coming to Paris, hungry for a taste of the most exclusive fashion in the world. The Armani Prive show got its very own Hollywood moment when Jessica Chastain got the Oscar call whilst seated in the front row. Armani has a long history in dressing Hollywood, and the Prive collection has proved incredibly popular. This season’s collection was tailor-made for starlets, with sequinned bodices and incredible beaded gowns in glorious shades of green. The silver chevron gown in particular was a winner, just begging for a chance to shine on the red-carpet.

The most controversial note of the week was struck by Jean Paul Gaultier. Forming an entire collection in tribute to singer Amy Winehouse, from the trademark peroxide sweep in the models’ beehived hair to the pencil skirts worn with attitude, this was a collection with a sole purpose. Celebrating Amy’s unique style, which so neatly dovetailed with her music, Gaultier may have hit the headlines but this act was far from cynical. Gaultier’s collection had a poignancy that hit you right between the eyes, asking us just one question – what if?

While JPG was exploring the past, Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel was setting his sights squarely on the future. The light, airy feel of icy-blue and deepest navy formed the perfect backdrop for Lagerfeld’s newest take on femininity. Drop-waists on dresses, slouchy pockets and hair sculpted into sky-high quiffs – this was Chanel in familiar territory: boy meets girl. A welcome departure from Chanel’s previous post-apocalyptic seasons, this collection was bright, breezy and above all else, very, very cool.

Winning the prize for sheer number of hours spent on the sewing floor, Valentino’s design duo, Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri, took craftsmanship to the next level. With a reported 350 hours spent creating just one piece, the result was a couture show packed with ethereal, heart-stopping detail. Taffeta, lace and organza took centre stage but underpinning the whole collection was the reminder that these dream-like creations were made by hand. Ever y piece was so finely stitched, those who examined the pieces up close at the atelier, had to remind themselves that this was all human endeavour. Piccoli and Chiuri first made their name as accessory designers, and as they told www.style.com, they quickly learned how to ‘tell a big story with a small object.’ It is in the small details that the big picture comes to life, and this is the essence of couture. Piccoli and Chiuri understand very clearly how story-telling in fashion can come down to the smallest stitch.

With Chanel, Valentino, Armani and Versace appearing in such good health, it seems that reports of couture’s demise have been greatly exaggerated: in 2009, haute couture was deemed to be on the brink of extinction. After all, in a financial maelstrom, who would possibly want a blouse at £20,000? But three years later, couture is thriving thanks to new customers in China, Russia and beyond. There has been murmurs about whether this has led to a more consumer-friendly couture, rather than the wild, playful exploration of ideas it was ten years ago, but the deal with couture is that it can be both.  From Riccardo Tisci’s Metropolis-inspired, highly restrained collection to the glamazon excesses at Versace, the beauty of couture is that there is room for every kind of expression. This is no time for half-measures – fashion needs diversity in order to survive. Couture is no longer about indulgence, but fearless, game-changing creativity. Haute Couture has evolved into an entirely different kind of animal, and its timing is perfect.

HELEN TOPE