MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA + H&M = FASHION HEAVEN

 

If you’re the type of shopper who craves designer detail, but your budget won’t stretch to it, the recent spate of H&M collaborations won’t have escaped your notice.

Launched with a no-expense-spared campaign including a video directed by Sofia Coppola, the Swedish store’s most recent collection, courtesy of Marni, proved incredibly successful, with consumers gravitating en masse towards the retro prints that are the label’s calling card.

Where H&M’s projects have succeeded where others have failed, is in refusing to pander to their audience. With many of their collaborations proving critical successes as well as commercial manna, collections have ranged from crowd-pleasers such as Stella McCartney and Versace, to more cerebral offerings from quirky duo Viktor & Rolf. Working on the assumption that the H&M customer knows their way around the fashion landscape, H&M aims high and ends up striking gold.

With the news of their latest collaboration released earlier this week, H&M will be working with Paris-based label Maison Martin Margiela to create a collection that will be in stores on the 15^th of November.

The avant-garde design house prides itself on a collaborative ethos, noting that its philosophy is the ‘work of a group rather than one designer’, so this project with H&M makes perfect sense. The design team, who make their post-runway appearances in white lab coats, actively work on taking the snob factor out of fashion. For one of their shows, they abandoned the traditional power-seating plan (where the more influential you are, the closer you sit to the front row) and asked attendees to ‘discover’ their own seats, getting them to choose a seat in proximity to the front row that depicted what they thought their standing might be within the fashion community.

Considering that H&M sells high fashion looks for bargain prices, the democratised, art-for-art’s-sake house style of Margiela should strongly appeal. In their press launch, the fashion house issued a statement, saying that ‘the democracy of our fashion has always been at the centre of our creativity and the collaboration with H&M allows us to push this instinct further.’ With their deconstructed, left-field designs taking centre stage in five months’ time, the wait is on to see what happens with H&M’s boldest roll of the dice.

HELEN TOPE

THE ELEMENT OF SURPRISE: BAFTAS 2012

While the cold weather may have prevented some from making the trip to Covent Garden’s Opera House, some hardy souls braved the British winter to make a splash on the BAFTA red carpet.

Traditionally the place for Hollywood’s elite to explore their fashion B-side, what actually emerged in its place was the surprising trend of eco-fashion: once seen as a sartorial sideliner, the BAFTAs may have gone a long way in changing the way we look at green fashion.

Viola Davis, Michelle Williams, Michael Fassbender and Colin Firth all went for the eco option. Viola Davis appeared in a salmon pink Valentino – the very first gown from the Italian label to be made from recycled materials – and Michelle Williams’ custom-made gown from H&M was made using eco-friendly fabrics. Both Michael and Colin sported tuxedos from Giorgio Armani made from organic wool, with the recycled jacket accents originally starting life as plastic bottles (PET). Taking part in the Green Carpet Challenge to wear sustainable fashion to red-carpet events, these stars made a compelling case for eco fashion to be taken much more seriously. This was one red-carpet event with plenty of heart.

Persuaded to go green by Colin’s wife, Livia, who has actively championed green fashion, the eco trend is one we could see a whole lot more of in future events, as Livia has reported today on www.vogue.com that following a trip to the recent couture shows, Karl Lagerfeld has shown interest in exploring eco fabrics. With YSL’s Stefano Pilati and Giambattista Valli reportedly wanting to explore eco options, the profile of green fashion is set to soar.

But the biggest surprise of the night was undoubtedly Michelle Williams arriving in a custom-made gown by H&M. Specially designed for the star, nominated for ‘My Week with Marilyn’, Michelle’s gown was high-street chic on a grand scale. This gown, though not officially part of the store’s Conscious Collection, was a bespoke creation following the same principles of responsible sourcing and production. With an exquisitely-fitted ivory bodice and black skirt with a corsage detail at the waist, Michelle pulled off a fabulous fashion coup. After all, where better to flaunt your high-street credentials than the UK?

Other stand-outs of the night included Tilda Swinton in icy-white Celine. With clean, crisp lines and minimal accessorising, this was red-carpet dressing for the 21^st century. Swinton, nominated for ‘We Need to Talk about Kevin’, is always odds-on favourite to wow us with an avant-garde choice. The Celine two-piece did not disappoint.

Jessica Chastain, Christina Ricci and Gillian Anderson came dressed to thrill in gowns brimming with metallic detail. Chastain’s beautiful pleated gown from Oscar de la Renta was the perfect match for her delicate features, and Gillian Anderson went for rich opulence in a gold vintage 1956 gown from Sybil Connolly. Ricci looked like she was pre-empting the Oscars in a deep gold plunging dress from Givenchy.

The turn-out for cinema’s biggest names was somewhat down on last year, but those who did attend found themselves at a memorable night with ‘The Artist’ scooping many of the major awards, and Colin Firth himself performing an act of gallantry by rescuing Meryl Streep’s lost shoe, creating serious headline wattage across the world. In nights like these that are sharply choreographed, the element of surprise, both on-stage and off,  serves to remind us that while BAFTA may be smaller than your average awards ceremony – it’s perfectly formed.

HELEN TOPE