SIMPLICITY ITSELF: OSCARS 2012

When it comes to awards ceremonies, not all red-carpets are created equal. Now in its 84^th year, the Academy Awards is, and remains, the benchmark by which all other events are measured.

With the knowledge that the world is watching, the pressure to get it right can be immense. Some stars avoid the glare of the fashion spotlight by playing it safe; others replay their best fashion hand with looks seen before. But those who make the headlines (in a good way), balance a little risk against a fail-safe marker – and that can be anything from a colour to a favourite silhouette. This is the strategy we saw in abundance at this year’s Oscars: a touch of the familiar, with a flash of unexpected genius, made for a very stylish carpet.

With a stunning appearance at the Golden Globes already under her belt, you would think that Angelina Jolie would have nothing left to prove. But you would be wrong. Jolie showed up in a black velvet gown from Atelier Versace, slit to the thigh with pleated panels on the bodice. It was a masterwork of seduction; no-one in Hollywood does smart / sexy quite like Angelina. Her winning formula of reveal and conceal makes her not only one of the Best Dressed of the night, but downright intriguing. Channelling old-school glamour with a twist of modernity, this was Jolie’s best look of the season.

Intelligent choices were all over this red-carpet, with Gwyneth Paltrow stunning everyone in a stark, white gown and cape from Tom Ford. In theory, this could have gone horribly wrong, but Ford’s gift for precision and restraint made this outfit a beautiful example of postmodern glamour. As already demonstrated by Rooney Mara and Tilda Swinton, there is an appetite for gowns off the beaten track: spare, elegant forms without a flounce in sight. This modern way of approaching red-carpet dressing looks set to become the rule rather than the exception: ruffles and bows for night-time don’t sit quite right at the moment. Indulging your inner girl feels more appropriate to daytime with Louis Vuitton and Prada giving us plenty of ideas on how to do pretty.

In terms of eveningwear, bold, sleek shapes channel a political consciousness that’s purely interested in showing up, not showing off. Gwyneth, picked by many as the evening’s Best Dressed, had clued up on the style zeitgeist: her choice was undeniably beautiful but its simplicity left Paltrow looking calm, relaxed and approachable. This style code feels like a better fit on Gwyneth, who in the early part of her career struggled to find her groove. But this stab at sartorial greatness turns Gwyneth into a very modern style icon: cool, confident and above all, contemporary.

Very few people did sequins for the Oscars, but those that did, applied them with wit and verve. Rose Byrne’s midnight-blue gown from Vivienne Westwood made her one of the red-carpet stand outs. Epic detail was reined in by a sleek, one-shoulder design and a touch of Westwood tailoring. This many sequins should cause the dress to droop, but it stood firm thanks to a corsetry that kept the shape of the dress intact. It was a comforting hit of sparkle (for those who feel a red-carpet isn’t the same without it), and Rose’s profile soared in what was a very modern re-working of a red-carpet classic.

Jessica Chastain, nominated for her role in ‘The Help’, also took her brand to the next level in a career-making turn wearing custom-made McQueen. A black strapless gown overlaid with intricate gold embroidery saw Jessica; in sartorial terms at least, go toe-to-toe with Angelina and Gwyneth. Paired with beautifully-judged make-up and tousled hair, this was a look belonging to someone who is destined to become an even bigger star. Someone with this much confidence at this stage in their career cannot help but excel – Jessica is one to watch.

Some of those attending did opt for colour in what has been a curiously monochromatic awards season: Natalie Portman in vintage Dior, Emma Stone in Giambattista Valli and Michelle Williams in Louis Vuitton – all three went for shades of red.

Williams’ gown in particular divided the critics: a strapless gown with soft, horizontal ruffles and a peplum detail at the waist was a winning choice but possibly not on Williams. Like Paltrow, Williams is most in her comfort zone when she goes simple. Some of her best red-carpet moments have been in dresses of deceptive simplicity.

Others attending chose to tread a well-beaten path. Meryl Streep chose the good-luck charm of previous Oscar winners and went for gold in eco-Lanvin. Like Sandra Bullock (Marchesa, 2010) and Charlize Theron (Gucci, 2004), Streep got her award dressed head-to-toe in gold.

Livia Firth’s good work at the BAFTAs in encouraging A-listers to participate in the Green Carpet Challenge was confirmed in earnest at the Oscars. French fashion-house Lanvin used eco-certified fabrics to dress the Iron Lady. Stepping up to collect the third Oscar of her career, Meryl looked softly glamorous. It was a truly Oscar-worthy choice.

If there was anything to take away from this awards season, it was a renewed appreciation of the simple things. A good cut, a plain colour won out time and again over flashier designs. It may be something to do with the types of films making it big this year: the grand-ambition projects or the small art house films that end up stealing your heart. But whatever is causing it, there’s a real call to arms to those who want real, honest-to-goodness sophistication.

Whether you like your red-carpet to shine, or be beautiful in a more subtle way, what’s very clear is that modern glamour – in all its grown-up glory – is here to stay.

HELEN TOPE

THE ELEMENT OF SURPRISE: BAFTAS 2012

While the cold weather may have prevented some from making the trip to Covent Garden’s Opera House, some hardy souls braved the British winter to make a splash on the BAFTA red carpet.

Traditionally the place for Hollywood’s elite to explore their fashion B-side, what actually emerged in its place was the surprising trend of eco-fashion: once seen as a sartorial sideliner, the BAFTAs may have gone a long way in changing the way we look at green fashion.

Viola Davis, Michelle Williams, Michael Fassbender and Colin Firth all went for the eco option. Viola Davis appeared in a salmon pink Valentino – the very first gown from the Italian label to be made from recycled materials – and Michelle Williams’ custom-made gown from H&M was made using eco-friendly fabrics. Both Michael and Colin sported tuxedos from Giorgio Armani made from organic wool, with the recycled jacket accents originally starting life as plastic bottles (PET). Taking part in the Green Carpet Challenge to wear sustainable fashion to red-carpet events, these stars made a compelling case for eco fashion to be taken much more seriously. This was one red-carpet event with plenty of heart.

Persuaded to go green by Colin’s wife, Livia, who has actively championed green fashion, the eco trend is one we could see a whole lot more of in future events, as Livia has reported today on www.vogue.com that following a trip to the recent couture shows, Karl Lagerfeld has shown interest in exploring eco fabrics. With YSL’s Stefano Pilati and Giambattista Valli reportedly wanting to explore eco options, the profile of green fashion is set to soar.

But the biggest surprise of the night was undoubtedly Michelle Williams arriving in a custom-made gown by H&M. Specially designed for the star, nominated for ‘My Week with Marilyn’, Michelle’s gown was high-street chic on a grand scale. This gown, though not officially part of the store’s Conscious Collection, was a bespoke creation following the same principles of responsible sourcing and production. With an exquisitely-fitted ivory bodice and black skirt with a corsage detail at the waist, Michelle pulled off a fabulous fashion coup. After all, where better to flaunt your high-street credentials than the UK?

Other stand-outs of the night included Tilda Swinton in icy-white Celine. With clean, crisp lines and minimal accessorising, this was red-carpet dressing for the 21^st century. Swinton, nominated for ‘We Need to Talk about Kevin’, is always odds-on favourite to wow us with an avant-garde choice. The Celine two-piece did not disappoint.

Jessica Chastain, Christina Ricci and Gillian Anderson came dressed to thrill in gowns brimming with metallic detail. Chastain’s beautiful pleated gown from Oscar de la Renta was the perfect match for her delicate features, and Gillian Anderson went for rich opulence in a gold vintage 1956 gown from Sybil Connolly. Ricci looked like she was pre-empting the Oscars in a deep gold plunging dress from Givenchy.

The turn-out for cinema’s biggest names was somewhat down on last year, but those who did attend found themselves at a memorable night with ‘The Artist’ scooping many of the major awards, and Colin Firth himself performing an act of gallantry by rescuing Meryl Streep’s lost shoe, creating serious headline wattage across the world. In nights like these that are sharply choreographed, the element of surprise, both on-stage and off,  serves to remind us that while BAFTA may be smaller than your average awards ceremony – it’s perfectly formed.

HELEN TOPE