PLAYING BOLD: GOLDEN GLOBES 2015

When it comes to writing about fashion, the space occupied by the red-carpet is quite unique – the red-carpet gown has a lot to live up to: as well as being current, it must be relatable, making its wearer seem likable, charming but still very much exuding star-power.
The temptation to play it safe and fade into the background must sometimes be overwhelming – braving it out with a daring colour or new style direction is a total high-wire act: get it wrong and the evidence will be internet fodder for the next ten years. Getting it right requires a bit of fashion know-how and a whole lot of nerve – luckily for us, at this year’s Golden Globes, playing bold was the game of choice.

(Kate Hudson wearing Atelier Versace)

This gutsy approach was self-evident very early on, with white gowns turning up in large numbers. Despite its reputation for being tricky to wear, white is a red-carpet staple; beloved by ingénues and more established names alike. Its versatility is the key to its popularity – it can be sophisticated (Julia Louis-Dreyfus, Narciso Rodriguez); sweetly feminine (Keira Knightley, Chanel) and even cutting edge (Rosamund Pike, Vera Wang). White never blends in and there’s a shade to suit every complexion, with stars including Reese Witherspoon, Salma Hayek and Emily Blunt all wearing (very different) interpretations of this classic neutral.

(Julia Louis-Dreyfus wearing Narciso Rodriguez)
Kate Hudson wowed in an all-bets-are-off Atelier Versace, with wickedly unforgiving cut-out detail. Versace smartly pushed the dress to its limits, but even with serious skin on show, what you noticed about Hudson’s look was how the fabric draped, rather than clung, creating an easy elegance that made Hudson instant click-bait. Playing with our perceptions is Versace’s go-to move, and turning super-sexy into red-carpet-appropriate was the work of a (very adept) sleight of hand – and Hudson looked simply fabulous.

(Diane Kruger wearing Emilia Wickstead)

From one extreme to another, Diane Kruger was positively regal in a high-necked, vintage-style gown by British designer Emilia Wickstead. While a traditional choice, Kruger’s pared-back styling meant this look was far from stuffy. Kruger is normally a fan of couture-like detail, wearing highly decorated pieces, and to see her in such a simple design was a welcome change of pace.
The headline to take away from this year’s Golden Globes red carpet, though, was the re-emergence of colour – this time not as an accent, but as the main event. Blues, reds, pinks and purples saturated the carpet, lifting the rain-soaked event with a wash of exuberant colour.

(Amy Adams wearing custom Versace)

The most successful attempts at colour were those who wore shades that complemented skin tone: Amy Adams demonstrated this with aplomb in a delicate shade of lilac-tinged blue that worked perfectly with her pale skin and red hair. Dressed by Versace in a one-shouldered, neo-Grecian gown, this elegant offering was vintage-inspired but clearly an expertly-fitted custom design. Adams has a track record of beautiful red-carpet moments wearing blue – but it will take an impressive gown to knock this Versace off the top spot.

(Gwyneth Paltrow posing for an Instagram snap, wearing Michael Kors)

Playing to your strengths is always a good strategy for the red-carpet, and no-one knows this better than Gwyneth Paltrow. A favourite with designers including Tom Ford and Ralph Lauren, Paltrow’s recent run of red-carpet hits meant expectations were high – and she didn’t disappoint.
Wearing a bubble-gum pink gown with a plunging neckline, Gwyneth’s choice of colour was reminiscent of her 1999 taffeta Oscar gown – but that’s where the similarities ended. In the years since her Oscar win, Paltrow has learned about fashion and what suits her best – clean, athletic lines work perfectly on Gwyneth’s frame, and she looked relaxed and comfortable in a made-to-measure Michael Kors gown that had just the right degree of slink.

But while the main story was colour, sparkle was still in evidence with Julianne Moore (Givenchy), Reese Witherspoon (Calvin Klein) and ’50 Shades of Grey’ star Dakota Johnson (Chanel) all opting for decadent shimmer.

(Julianne Moore wearing Givenchy Couture)

Wearing haute couture sequins from Givenchy, Golden Globe winner Julianne Moore dazzled. Her easy-going approach to the red carpet made this sparkler of a gown fresh, contemporary and very modern. Looking at this year’s red-carpet, you’d be forgiven for thinking that traditional red-carpet glitz was off the menu – it was there; just dressed in a different way.

(left to right: Emma Stone wearing Lanvin; Lorde wearing Narciso Rodriguez)

When it came to style winners, left-field choices created the most buzz: Emma Stone in a beaded Lanvin jumpsuit was cool without being try-hard; Lorde kept it youthful but occasion-appropriate in a custom Narciso Rodriguez suit with Neil Lane jewels and Kerry Washington’s bespoke gown from Mary Katrantzou may have divided opinion but introduced a new design voice into the fray. High-fashion has often had a rough ride in finding its groove on the red-carpet, but custom design is proving to be the way forward, with many attendees this year wearing creations that were one-of-a-kind.

(Kerry Washington wearing custom Mary Katrantzou)

Going against the grain when your style forms a large part of your reputation is definitely easier said than done, but while there was still room for tradition, it was the voices of style dissent that were heard loud and clear – from those who took a gamble with a style refresh, to those who played with our expectations.
With independent films already dominating the awards race, that same off-beat sensibility has definitely found its expression on the red-carpet – and 2015 is already looking like a bolder, braver year.

HELEN TOPE

KEEPING IT SIMPLE, KEEPING IT REAL: TOP 10 OSCAR DRESSES

With the 2013 Oscars just hours away, attention again turns to the red carpet. Once dubbed the world’s most powerful catwalk, the Oscars present a golden opportunity for stars to raise their game. Regardless of nominations or wins, scoring Best Dressed of the night can boost a fledgling career, herald a comeback or make us look at a star in a whole new light.
A good dress can garner all the right kind of attention; but a great dress creates its own legend. There have been moments on the red carpet where a dress becomes part of Oscar history. These 10 dresses that follow are a purely partisan selection, but gowns that I feel have earned their place: either by virtue of marking a moment in Oscar fashion history, or simply by being beautiful.

Grace Kelly (1955)
Winning an Oscar for her performance in ‘Country Girl’, Kelly turned up to the ceremony in what was (at that point) the most expensive gown ever worn to the Oscars. Designed by Edith Head (who herself won 8 Oscars for costume design during her career), the silk used for the gown alone cost $4,000. Expertly tailored with minimal accessories, Grace Kelly’s simple-but-effective gown has become the standard by which all red carpet style is measured. This look may be nearly 60 years old, but it still looks contemporary. When fashion pundits say true style is timeless, they almost certainly referring to this gown. An Oscar’s classic.

Uma Thurman (1995)
Forty years on from Grace Kelly’s triumph, Uma Thurman re-introduced minimalist chic to the red carpet. After decades of formal, heavily decorated evening gowns taking the sartorial lead (with varying degrees of success), Uma made the pivotal decision to keep it simple.
Nominated for her appearance in ‘Pulp Fiction’, Uma went back to the drawing board. She liaised with up-and-coming designer Miuccia Prada to create a delicately-feminine gown and matching stole in lavender. Uma (a former model) worked the gown on the red carpet with aplomb. Sophisticated but still youthful, the gown was a love letter to the best of 1990’s minimalism.
Uma’s decision to go designer was a watershed moment for red-carpet fashion. The relationship between film and fashion was re-ignited, and the formal eveningwear was replaced with the best of the runway.

Sharon Stone (1996)
One year on, and thanks to Uma, the red carpet looked very different. Finesse took the place of extravagance, and no-one took this lesson more to heart than Sharon Stone.
Nominated for her role in ‘Casino’, Stone reportedly had a wardrobe crisis, and unable to go ahead with Outfit A, had to resort to a hasty Plan B. In a stroke of genius, Stone paired a trumpet skirt from Valentino with a charcoal poloneck from high-street store GAP. Finishing the outfit with a jacket and vibrant red lipstick, Stone hit the red carpet.
It was an act of sheer daring, but it paid off. The Oscars red carpet is littered with examples of bold gestures that failed to launch, but Sharon’s sartorial leap of faith worked because the detail was kept to a minimum. Looking at this picture, there is nothing dated here: everything is a classic piece and together, they work beautifully.

Nicole Kidman (1997)
Two years on from Uma Thurman’s success with Prada, Nicole Kidman showed us just what could be achieved by embracing haute couture.
Hiring John Galliano, Nicole allowed the designer free rein. As one half of the most famous couple in showbiz, Kidman was taking a huge risk, but her ability to pick the best design talent would prove uncanny in its accuracy.
This gown formed part of Galliano’s debut collection for Dior Couture. Oozing Asian-inspired influence from the silhouette down to the exquisitely hand-stitched embroidery, this dress was not just to be worn, it was to be admired as a piece of art.
Kidman wore the gown with a respect worthy of the hours spent creating it and this dress made headlines around the world, cementing Kidman’s reputation as a style icon and Galliano’s status as the next big thing. It ushered in a new era of couture, with actresses eager to take their style to the next level.

Cate Blanchett (1999)
A new face in Hollywood, nominated for her star turn in ‘Elizabeth’, Blanchett took the couture mantel laid down by Kidman and ran with it.
Also opting for John Galliano, Cate’s gown was very different to Nicole Kidman’s theatrical glamour. Worn close to the body, the selling point of Cate’s bohemian-style dress was all in the back. With hummingbirds and flowers delicately stitched onto a sheer panel, the result looked as if the detail had been tattooed onto Blanchett’s skin.
It was a left-field choice for the actress who was expected to turn up in something grander, more befitting her role in the film for which she was nominated. But Cate went in the other direction, creating a first impression on the Oscars red carpet that was individual, intelligent and intriguing.
This style blue-print has been Blanchett’s motto throughout the years. She eventually picked up an Oscar in 2005, turning up to the event in a canary-yellow silk gown from Valentino, accessorised by a burgundy velvet sash. Fearless in her choices, Cate has been one of the red carpet’s most reliable stars when it comes to understanding (and wearing) high-fashion.

Kate Winslet (2002)
A modern red-carpet veteran, Winslet has been seen in everything from an emerald, empire-line gown by Alexander McQueen to a futuristic silver column dress by YSL. Choosing to bypass trends, Kate has won her Best Dressed laurels by going for looks that optimise her best features.
Nowhere was this more evident than in her appearance at the 2002 Oscars. Wearing a red gown by British designer Ben de Lisi, the gown’s asymmetric shoulder was crowned with a garland of flowers. Expertly fitted to Winslet’s curves, this feminine, sensual gown was a no-brainer for Best Dressed.

Charlize Theron (2004)
A great tip for nominees: if you really want to win, dress the part. Both Charlize (and Sandra Bullock in 2010), in their zeal to win the statuette, went for gold.
Charlize, who won for her performance in ‘Monster’, turned up in a custom-made Gucci gown. In the palest shade of gold, and beaded from top-to-toe, this dress was a triumph of subliminal messaging.
Theron, who had already proved her fashion nous, styled the gown with 40’s inspired finger waves and delicately-glowing make-up. Charlize not only shimmered on the red carpet, she was the absolute centre of attention. A favourite to win in the months leading up to the ceremony, this show of self-confidence was touching. In an awards circuit where modesty is the default setting, Theron’s bold decision to dress as the front-runner was not only audacious, it was downright inspiring. This is as close an interpretation of girl power as red carpet fashion gets.

Michelle Williams (2006)
An actress who marches to the beat of her own drum, Williams is one of Hollywood’s most ambiguous talents.
Nominated for her moving performance in ‘Brokeback Mountain’, Michelle’s red carpet choice won hearts – and raised eyebrows. Turning up in a mustard-yellow, softly-ruffled gown by Vera Wang, this outfit divided opinion, but those who got it, loved it.
Paired with a deep-red lip colour, Williams’ choice was one of those Oscar moments you either adored or loathed. For my money, this was clearly a selection Williams made with her heart, not her head, and this is why I feel it works. A woman in the wrong dress is obvious: despite her best red-carpet training, her body language will always be awkward and uncomfortable. The smile feels forced, rather than genuine.
What Williams did was to go with the choice that may not have seemed right, but it felt right. Going with her instinct, Michelle’s look made fashion history. Not because it was ‘right’ or ‘wrong’, but because of her absolute confidence in the dress, Michelle was utterly convincing.

Jennifer Lawrence (2011)
Another unashamedly personal choice, Jennifer Lawrence has seen her profile rapidly ascend in the space of two years.
Pictured here nominated for her stunning performance in ‘Winter’s Bone’, Lawrence returns again in 2013 as one of Hollywood’s hottest names. But her inaugural appearance at the 2011 Oscars was a master-class in how to make yourself memorable.
Lawrence did this by utilising the first rule of Oscar dressing: if in doubt, keep it simple. She wore a custom-made jersey gown by Calvin Klein creative director, Francisco Costa. It was red, slinky and effortless – and completely at odds with the heavily detailed gowns in favour that year such as the Givenchy Couture dress worn by Cate Blanchett, or Mila Kunis in lilac lace by Elie Saab.
By going against the grain, Lawrence became the ingénue we all remembered. In being brave enough to be different, Jennifer showed her star potential.

Gwyneth Paltrow (2012)
Like her peers, Cate Blanchett and Kate Winslet, Paltrow’s personal history with the Oscars is extensive.
Winning in 1999 for her performance in ‘Shakespeare in Love’, she appeared in a classic Ralph Lauren ballgown in pink taffeta. Turning up in 2002, she arrived in a gothic-inspired sheer gown by Alexander McQueen. Ill-fitting, and sheer in all the wrong places, this was by any standard, an epic fail.
Since then, Paltrow has redeemed herself many times over, with some great looks. But any future appearances will have to work hard to eclipse her triumph at last year’s Oscars. Head-to-toe in arctic white, Gwyneth’s outfit was tailor-made by Tom Ford. Wearing an asymmetric column gown with matching cape, this was a mastery of fabric and form. It was cool and contemporary, but in its sophistication, it was totally appropriate for Paltrow. This outfit erases Gwyneth’s early reputation as the ‘next Grace Kelly’ and transforms it into something far less expected. Her latest incarnation is modern, fresh and unique – and couldn’t be further removed from that pink ballgown.
In not being afraid to change and adapt, Gwyneth has learnt from her mistakes, and has followed her instincts to create a style that’s emphatically her own. As far as red-carpet fashion goes, there is no more worthwhile lesson. Keep it simple, but keep it real.

HELEN TOPE

METAL WORKS: MET GALA 2012

A night known for surprises, the Met Gala held earlier this week in New York gave the fashion world an evening to remember.

Normally the place for big, fashion-forward statements, the Met Gala seemed like a red-carpet of a bygone age with stars going for metallics in gold, silver or pewter. This camera-friendly trend may seem like the obvious choice for an event where fashion is the main feature, but in recent years, metallics have fallen from favour. With its full-on glitz, it began to look old-fashioned, almost too much in an age of austerity. So in came a new palette of soft blushes and nudes. It was virtually a fail-safe look if you chose the right shade for your skin tone and proved popular with both stars and fashion pundits.

This then gave way to more runway-conscious looks, with stars borrowing pieces seen on the world’s catwalks only days or weeks before. It became a fashion free-for-all with stars competing to get the most cutting-edge designs available. Everything was seen on the red-carpet from fringing to laser-cut detail. The red-carpet once again became a place for experiments: some worked, others didn’t. The experiments made for a red-carpet that was fun as it was radical, but as with everything in fashion, trends come full circle.

Those who stepped out on Sunday also stepped back in time: everywhere you looked at this year’s Met Gala, someone was giving you old-school glamour. ‘Modern Family’ star Sofia Vergara shone in a silver Marchesa gown; Lana Del Rey channelled superhero chic in a caped silver dress from Altuzarra and Scarlett Johansson wowed in a fairytale ballgown courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana.

Model Karolina Kurkova gave us the maximum dazzle per square inch with a show-stopping gold gown with matching headdress from stylist-turned-designer, Rachel Zoe. Love it or hate it, this statement piece clarifies just what separates the Met from all the other red-carpets. If in doubt, go for broke.

Also going for the bright stuff, Jessica Alba and Nina Dobrev turned out in classic goddess gowns. Alba directly channelled Marilyn Monroe in a gold pleated gown from Michael Kors and Dobrev wowed again in Donna Karan, proving that sartorial excellence isn’t just reserved for the big-screen stars.

With so many attendees going for a similar look, the big question is why a metallic revival now? These types of gowns were noticeably absent from the awards circuit earlier this year. The quickest route to glamour, metallics have a long-standing association with Hollywood, but in 2012 it was pastels, monochrome and lashings of dark sequins making all the headlines. Red-carpet fashion looked set to be heading in a new direction, making this U-turn all the more surprising.

As good as metallics are for grabbing attention, there is the risk that one look blends into the next. Those who played the metallic card with verve went for bold shapes and high hemlines, giving substance to a finish that can at times be one-dimensional.

Gwyneth Paltrow and Carey Mulligan racked up the most column inches, with both turning up in Prada, but worn to very different effect. Mulligan went for full-on modernist glam with textured metallic pailettes and hair swept back off the face. Paltrow went softer, with a silver-lilac mini. The angular detailing and razor-sharp cutaways made Gwyneth’s Prada turn one of the best looks of the night. Following her big moment at the Oscars, the Prada dress was a logical move following the white Tom Ford dress and cape.

After nearly twenty years as an A-lister, what Gwyneth teaches the younger generation is sartorial narrative. She has gradually evolved from the 90’s Grace Kelly in sherbet-pink to a confident, modern woman not afraid to take chances. Each look, plotted against the last, makes perfect sense as you see Paltrow physically move from ingénue to star. Even her mistakes have led her onto bigger and better ideas. Like her contemporary Cate Blanchett, Gwyneth has always applied intelligence to her red-carpet choices. As Paltrow enters her forties, it’s a strategy that’s finally paying off.

Carey Mulligan, who co-hosted the evening with Anna Wintour, went dressed in homage to one of the designers of the night. The exhibition, ‘Impossible Conversations: Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada’, drew parallels between the surrealist designs of Schiaparelli and the heady mix of references we’ve come to expect from Prada. Carey’s gold and silver creation from Prada was a radical rethink on sequins. Worn in their large pailette form, they were layered so densely it gave the impression that Mulligan was wearing armour.

After a lengthy absence away from the spotlight, if metallics were to return to the red-carpet, they needed an image overhaul to get us excited about them all over again. Carey’s gown – coolly glamorous and definitely memorable – was the perfect way to reintroduce us to an old friend. As worn here, metallics looked fresh, sophisticated and inviting. The reputation of metallics has suffered by being more recently associated with D-list celebrities looking to get a quick publicity hit. This Prada intervention was enough to catapult metallic back to the top of every fashionista’s wish-list.

Seduction was also on the cards with starlets going for flashbulb appeal – Lea Michele wowed in a midnight-blue gown dripping with sequins from Diane Von Furstenberg, and Ashley Greene wearing a Donna Karan gown was a masterclass in how to do sexy without body-baring on a grand scale. Sexy got a 21^st century interpretation from ‘Mad Men’s January Jones in a canary-yellow Versace dress. The figure-hugging bodice poured down into a peplum detail that made the most of January’s post-baby body, proving that dazzle can be applied in a subtle medium and still have the desired effect.

There was plenty to admire this year, but the clear winner was metallics. Worn in new and exciting ways, this old favourite has come storming back as the red-carpet trend not only of the night, but the year. This is already being touted as an early indication of what the Awards Season in 2013 will look like. Marrying old-school glamour with couture sensibility, the Met Gala truly saw the best of both worlds.

HELEN TOPE

SIMPLICITY ITSELF: OSCARS 2012

When it comes to awards ceremonies, not all red-carpets are created equal. Now in its 84^th year, the Academy Awards is, and remains, the benchmark by which all other events are measured.

With the knowledge that the world is watching, the pressure to get it right can be immense. Some stars avoid the glare of the fashion spotlight by playing it safe; others replay their best fashion hand with looks seen before. But those who make the headlines (in a good way), balance a little risk against a fail-safe marker – and that can be anything from a colour to a favourite silhouette. This is the strategy we saw in abundance at this year’s Oscars: a touch of the familiar, with a flash of unexpected genius, made for a very stylish carpet.

With a stunning appearance at the Golden Globes already under her belt, you would think that Angelina Jolie would have nothing left to prove. But you would be wrong. Jolie showed up in a black velvet gown from Atelier Versace, slit to the thigh with pleated panels on the bodice. It was a masterwork of seduction; no-one in Hollywood does smart / sexy quite like Angelina. Her winning formula of reveal and conceal makes her not only one of the Best Dressed of the night, but downright intriguing. Channelling old-school glamour with a twist of modernity, this was Jolie’s best look of the season.

Intelligent choices were all over this red-carpet, with Gwyneth Paltrow stunning everyone in a stark, white gown and cape from Tom Ford. In theory, this could have gone horribly wrong, but Ford’s gift for precision and restraint made this outfit a beautiful example of postmodern glamour. As already demonstrated by Rooney Mara and Tilda Swinton, there is an appetite for gowns off the beaten track: spare, elegant forms without a flounce in sight. This modern way of approaching red-carpet dressing looks set to become the rule rather than the exception: ruffles and bows for night-time don’t sit quite right at the moment. Indulging your inner girl feels more appropriate to daytime with Louis Vuitton and Prada giving us plenty of ideas on how to do pretty.

In terms of eveningwear, bold, sleek shapes channel a political consciousness that’s purely interested in showing up, not showing off. Gwyneth, picked by many as the evening’s Best Dressed, had clued up on the style zeitgeist: her choice was undeniably beautiful but its simplicity left Paltrow looking calm, relaxed and approachable. This style code feels like a better fit on Gwyneth, who in the early part of her career struggled to find her groove. But this stab at sartorial greatness turns Gwyneth into a very modern style icon: cool, confident and above all, contemporary.

Very few people did sequins for the Oscars, but those that did, applied them with wit and verve. Rose Byrne’s midnight-blue gown from Vivienne Westwood made her one of the red-carpet stand outs. Epic detail was reined in by a sleek, one-shoulder design and a touch of Westwood tailoring. This many sequins should cause the dress to droop, but it stood firm thanks to a corsetry that kept the shape of the dress intact. It was a comforting hit of sparkle (for those who feel a red-carpet isn’t the same without it), and Rose’s profile soared in what was a very modern re-working of a red-carpet classic.

Jessica Chastain, nominated for her role in ‘The Help’, also took her brand to the next level in a career-making turn wearing custom-made McQueen. A black strapless gown overlaid with intricate gold embroidery saw Jessica; in sartorial terms at least, go toe-to-toe with Angelina and Gwyneth. Paired with beautifully-judged make-up and tousled hair, this was a look belonging to someone who is destined to become an even bigger star. Someone with this much confidence at this stage in their career cannot help but excel – Jessica is one to watch.

Some of those attending did opt for colour in what has been a curiously monochromatic awards season: Natalie Portman in vintage Dior, Emma Stone in Giambattista Valli and Michelle Williams in Louis Vuitton – all three went for shades of red.

Williams’ gown in particular divided the critics: a strapless gown with soft, horizontal ruffles and a peplum detail at the waist was a winning choice but possibly not on Williams. Like Paltrow, Williams is most in her comfort zone when she goes simple. Some of her best red-carpet moments have been in dresses of deceptive simplicity.

Others attending chose to tread a well-beaten path. Meryl Streep chose the good-luck charm of previous Oscar winners and went for gold in eco-Lanvin. Like Sandra Bullock (Marchesa, 2010) and Charlize Theron (Gucci, 2004), Streep got her award dressed head-to-toe in gold.

Livia Firth’s good work at the BAFTAs in encouraging A-listers to participate in the Green Carpet Challenge was confirmed in earnest at the Oscars. French fashion-house Lanvin used eco-certified fabrics to dress the Iron Lady. Stepping up to collect the third Oscar of her career, Meryl looked softly glamorous. It was a truly Oscar-worthy choice.

If there was anything to take away from this awards season, it was a renewed appreciation of the simple things. A good cut, a plain colour won out time and again over flashier designs. It may be something to do with the types of films making it big this year: the grand-ambition projects or the small art house films that end up stealing your heart. But whatever is causing it, there’s a real call to arms to those who want real, honest-to-goodness sophistication.

Whether you like your red-carpet to shine, or be beautiful in a more subtle way, what’s very clear is that modern glamour – in all its grown-up glory – is here to stay.

HELEN TOPE