NEW GLAMOUR, NEW RULES: OSCARS 2014

It can be said that making a good impression on the red-carpet can give your career a boost, but when it comes to the Oscars, that boost can translate into a whole new chapter. Any publicity may be good publicity in Hollywood, but at the Oscars, good publicity is priceless.

No-one understands the power of a red-carpet moment better than Cate Blanchett. Ever since her debut at the 1999 Oscars, Blanchett has understood how to strike the balance between being different and being appropriate. With a series of Oscar hits under her belt (including her previous Oscar win whilst wearing canary-yellow Valentino), all eyes were on Blanchett to see what she would pull out of the bag for her moment as Best Actress nominee.

Cate didn’t disappoint, arriving in a custom-made Armani Prive gown. In a shimmering champagne gown with exquisitely worked beading, Blanchett’s transition from critics’ favourite to bona fide film star was complete. Cate’s transformation has been fashion-led all the way. From January when she showed she meant business in black-lace Valentino, her newly-defined star status has been thrilling to watch. Blanchett’s love of fashion has found its voice this awards season, with Blanchett trying on every style on for size. Blanchett’s previous flirtation with high-end, directional fashion has broadened into an intelligent glamour that has taken her personal style onto new heights.

She dazzled in an Armani gown that was notable for its restraint: the heavily-embellished dress had a lightness of touch that made this take on classic Hollywood glamour feel new and fresh. With softly-waved hair and make-up that was pitch perfect, Blanchett may have yielded to glamour on her road to that Best Actress Oscar, but it was all done on her terms. With no obligatory nods to the big trends, every look during the awards circuit has stood on its own merits, making Cate a stand-out at every ceremony. In every sense, 2014 really has been Blanchett’s year.

This season has seen many fashion triumphs, and no-one made a bigger impact on the red-carpet than Lupita Nyong’o. Virtually an unknown 6 months ago, Nyong’o is now a fashion favourite – and multi-award winner.

Her simple red-carpet formula of primary brights paired with bold silhouettes has been a knockout, with Lupita impressing from the very start of this awards season.

It all culminated in her appearance at the Oscars, wearing a custom gown by Prada; the delicate, Nairobi blue pleated gown was a romantic, sweeping statement. Lupita was unmissable on the red-carpet – in a year dominated by metallics and neutrals, Nyong’o opting for colour was the smartest choice of the night.

Accessorised with crescent earrings and a specially-made diamond headband, Lupita’s appearance was understated yet bursting with confidence. For those who have followed Lupita’s first steps into red-carpet glamour, this Prada gown was merely a promise fulfilled: while Blanchett has transformed into a Hollywood great, Lupita has become fashion’s newest obsession. Her innate understanding of how fashion works, coupled with her fearless approach to colour and shape means that Nyang’o has set the standard for ingénues – rewriting the rule that it takes time to find your fashion feet. Lupita’s style hit the ground running – and following that is going to be a very tough prospect for the next big thing.

The Oscars was a return to form for many of the stars attending: Jennifer Lawrence and Amy Adams in particular have had a very mixed reception to their red-carpet picks. While Adams’ electric-blue Berardi gown at the SAG’s proved to be the hit of the night, her BAFTAs and Golden Globes outfits reached no firm consensus with the fashion pundits.

But Adams returned to the Oscars with a bang – wearing a perfectly tailored gown by Gucci Premiere. Its expert construction was famously put to the test when Adams got her groove on during Pharrell Williams’ performance during the ceremony.

Jennifer Lawrence also saved the best for last, as she arrived in a tomato-red peplum gown by Dior. With only the peplum frills as the detail, the vibrant colour let Jennifer shine. It also proved a canny choice when she took part in ‘that’ selfie – Bradley Cooper may be front and centre in that photo, but your eye goes straight to Lawrence in that bold hit of red.

The most noticeable trend of the night was a blend of metallics and neutrals. Stars eschewed the brights and prints seen on the runway for Spring / Summer 2014, and went with camera-friendly shades.

Angelina Jolie led the way in a shimmering bronze gown by Elie Saab. If you wanted refinement and elegance on Oscar night, Angelina was only too happy to oblige. Beautifully matched with hair and make-up that spoke of discreet luxury, this look was typical Brand Jolie. Angelina doesn’t need bells and whistles to look good – her headline-grabbing appearances in head-to-toe leather have been replaced by an easy elegance that is grown-up without being stuffy. Jolie has become the best in the business at putting this look together. She has been imitated many times – but never bettered.

The neutrals were also hitting home runs with Naomi Watts, Meryl Streep and Kate Hudson in shades of white.

Hudson’s appearance in Atelier Versace was one of the most striking looks of the evening, with Kate channelling Eighties glitz in a beaded gown with shoulder detail, accessorised simply with side-sweeping curls. The 80’s shoulder had its own micro-trend moment, also being worn by Camila Alves, wife of Best Actor winner, Matthew McConaughey.

Camila gave a masterclass in how to dress when your husband’s massive career gamble has paid off – in spectacular fashion. Bucking the expectation of a nominee’s spouse to fade into the background, Camila garnered as many column inches as Blanchett and Nyong’o in softly draped pink, courtesy of Gabriela Cadena. The gown was elegant power-dressing personified – and put Camila (and Cadena) in the fashion spotlight.

It was a night of firsts: with first-time nominees scooping Best Actor and Best Actress. The relaxed atmosphere, led by presenter Ellen De Generes, set the tone for a bright and breezy Oscars that (quite literally) had everyone up and dancing. The emphasis on fun over formality was a ratings-winning strategy, and a philosophy that spilled over onto the red carpet.

Instead of following the trends and labels of the moment, nominees and presenters alike created their own fashion rules, opting for classics, with rare touches of colour among the metallics and neutrals.

But the difference this year was subtle but crucial: the red-carpet was a reminder not to equate classic with boring. The exquisite detailing of this year’s gowns was the big story – if you were looking closely enough. Whether it was pleating, draping or light-as-air beadwork – the beauty was all in the finer detail.

Gowns that demand a closer look have definitely been the overarching theme for this year’s awards season. The confidence to go with a look that’s not off-the-peg is a reassurance that Hollywood is starting to craft its own fashion narrative – one that defines and expresses star status (and star potential).

Every gown had its own story to tell: the pale-blue pleated gown worn by Lupita Nyong’o revealed an ingénue full of self-confidence; the champagne gown worn by Cate Blanchett was a dress fit for Hollywood royalty, but its emphasis on restraint puts Blanchett in a rare category of star – where the role really does come first.

Almost without exception, everyone brought their sartorial A-game to the ceremony, and the result was a carpet where modern detail was etched onto timeless silhouettes and bold, contemporary colour brought freshness and vivacity to classic shapes.

It was the least trend-defined Oscars carpet in recent memory, with stars delivering a very personal interpretation of what glamour meant to them. With Cate Blanchett, that was couture detail – with Amy Adams, it was impeccable fit.

This individual approach made for a very unique red-carpet experience – one that played outside the rules, challenging our preconceptions of what a red-carpet event should look like. In making it personal, they made it beautiful. It will be a tough act to follow, but for awards season 2015, the game is well and truly on.

HELEN TOPE

 

CREATING MOMENTS: BAFTAS 2014

The BAFTAs are traditionally a space for A-listers to try something a little more off the beaten track. While the British weather may not lend itself as a backdrop to feminine pastels and sugary shades, it is the perfect foil for daring, sophisticated glamour, and at this year’s ceremony, stars were only too ready to embrace their dark side.

Leading the way was ‘Blue Jasmine’ nominee (and award winner), Cate Blanchett in a form-fitting column gown by Alexander McQueen. Expertly tailored in a heavy-duty satin with silver embroidery, this gown was a world away from Blanchett’s blush-pink Givenchy outing at the Screen Actors’ Guild Awards. Beautifully worked make-up and hair kept this look light and elegant, with Blanchett looking every bit the Oscar winner-in-waiting.

It has been a near-perfect run of red carpet wonders for Blanchett, who has consistently wowed with her choices. Always appropriate, but always interesting, Blanchett has kept the fashion pundits on their toes. With the next stop on the red-carpet circuit being the Oscars, Blanchett is on target to make a clean sweep of not only the awards (scooping wins en masse), but making sure that her mark left on this year’s red carpet is indelible.

Black and navy are perennial favourite colours for the BAFTAs, and this year was no exception: both Amy Adams and Uma Thurman skilfully demonstrated why these darker hues can work just as well as bright tones when it comes to getting a fair share of the spotlight.

Amy Adams decided to go home-grown with a design from Victoria Beckham. The sleek design, a high-octane interpretation of the shirt-dress, was another bold choice following on from Adams’ break-out appearance at the Screen Actors’ Guild Awards in an electric-blue gown by Antonio Berardi. After a shaky start on this year’s circuit, Adams has definitely found her fashion footing.

Doing duty as award presenter this year, Uma Thurman made a stunning case for navy. An often-ignored shade, this colour is slowly gaining ground as an A-lister favourite. It has all the figure-flattering benefits of black, but the way it photographs means the added interest of a subtle hint of colour gives navy that extra edge; it is the choice of a confident woman – and on this year’s BAFTA carpet, Uma oozed confidence.

Wearing a figure-hugging Versace gown, accessorised with a show-stopping diamond necklace by Chopard, Thurman very nearly stole the show altogether. This was textbook old-school Hollywood glamour from a star who re-defined red carpet fashion when she arrived at the 1995 Oscars wearing head-to-toe Prada. She was a sensation, and the fashion world has never forgotten what it owes to Thurman. This perfectly-imagined Versace gown is a fitting tribute to what Thurman has done for red-carpet fashion and a reminder from 43-yr-old Uma that the best is yet to come.

However, the biggest monochrome splash of the evening came courtesy of a double-act when Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie turned up in matching Saint Laurent his-and-hers tuxedos.

With every big idea, the success is in the execution. A great idea can fall at the first hurdle if it is not handled with care and precision. With Saint Laurent expertly tailoring the tuxedo to Jolie’s frame, this was no gimmick: Angelina set the red-carpet alight with her approach to effortless chic. The effect was bold, modern and fresh – a left-field choice perfect for a red-carpet that welcomes daring, game-changer moves.

But if the night had to belong to anyone, it belonged to newcomer Lupita Nyong’o. Lupita’s red-carpet campaign has been a series of triumphs, with Nyong’o delving into a zesty colour palette of primary brights. Her choices from turquoise, tropical Gucci to a Ralph Lauren caped dress in scarlet-red, has made the fashion world sit up and take notice of this 30-year-old actress and film-maker. Lupita’s choices have been not only colourful; they have been spectacular. Not putting a foot wrong, Nyong’o has gone for simple silhouettes in dazzling headliner shades. As a style strategy, it has proved pretty much unbeatable.

Lupita’s appearance at the BAFTAs was another winner, with Nyong’o appearing in a jade-green gown by Dior Couture. A fitted bodice, flaring out into a dramatic, voluminous skirt, accessorised by a gold belt and matching wrist cuffs:  on paper, it sounds like a safe choice. But the choice of jade against Lupita’s skintone and the simplicity of the accessories were inspired, and took this rather simple concept into the high-fashion stratosphere.

The real success of Lupita’s red-carpet run has been her ability to wear big colours and big designers without being overwhelmed by either. Her inner confidence is her secret weapon, and that more than anything has been responsible for her red-carpet success. It’s not what you wear, but how you wear it: I have a feeling that Lupita would thoroughly agree with this sentiment.

In fact, the theme of this year’s BAFTA red carpet was not a colour, or a silhouette, but an attitude. From Cate’s relaxed glamour, to Lupita’s dazzling turn in Dior, every red-carpet success story this year had confidence at its core. Blanchett’s career-best performance in ‘Blue Jasmine’ makes her a cert for Best Actress at this year’s Oscars, and Lupita’s debut in ’12 Years a Slave’ has ensured that a substantial career in film is hers for the taking.

Confidence – well-earned, unapologetic – was everywhere on this red-carpet as women took centre stage. Strong shapes and bold colours were only half the story, with the sartorial highlights revealing a bigger picture of women in film. This year’s BAFTAs were not only honouring individual achievement, but a collective spirit that’s making films that engage and inspire. Complex, challenging roles are no longer just for the boys and the heavyweight performances delivered in ’12 Years a Slave’, ‘Blue Jasmine’ and ‘American Hustle’ acknowledge the contribution made by talents such as Nyong’o, Blanchett, and Adams. This red-carpet wasn’t just about having fun, this was a signal, loud and clear, that the women on the carpet are not only creating moments – they are making waves.

HELEN TOPE

THAT SECOND LOOK: SCREEN ACTORS’ GUILD AWARDS 2014

The Screen Actors’ Guild Awards may lack the headline-grabbing chutzpah of the Golden Globes, but these awards, geared to celebrating acting talent, are uniquely placed in the awards calendar. After the Globes, and well before the BAFTA’s and the Oscars, the SAG’s present the perfect opportunity for a style do-over.

One of the stars wanting to make a favourable second impression was Sandra Bullock. Arriving at the Globes in a multi-tone Prabal Gurung, the avant-garde style did not sit well on Bullock’s vintage glamour persona. Sandra’s brush with cutting-edge fashion was a rare fashion fail: she has always looked best in slim silhouettes, and the statement Prabal Gurung was quite simply a case of too much dress.

The slinky ‘wrap’ gown from Lanvin, however, is an illustration of how to achieve more by doing less. Paired with gold Jimmy Choo sandals, this look couldn’t have been more different to the Prabal Gurung: the simple Parisian glamour was fun, sexy – and very hard not to love.

The second tries kept coming, with Amy Adams turning her back on the 70’s-inspired plunging necklines of ‘American Hustle’, moving onto more architectural fashion. The sculptural shoulder detail of the electric-blue Antonio Berardi gown was a bold choice, but Amy wore it with effortless aplomb, making this one of her most striking red-carpet moments in years.

This was definitely an evening for challenging, left-field fashion. Cate Blanchett replaced Hollywood glamour at the Globes with an ultra-modern halterneck gown by Givenchy for the SAG’s.

In blush pink, the big story of this gown was the sequin-embellished bib detail. This look was definitely not a traditional crowd-pleaser, but something more typical to Blanchett’s love of avant-garde fashion.

Even when reception to her looks has been mixed, Blanchett gives you drama. Blending into the background has never been Cate’s style, but her daredevil approach to red-carpet dressing has always been tempered by a sense of occasion. Cate knows just how far to push; nudging us gently towards her fashion sensibility which has clearly been a labour of love. It is unusual to find a Hollywood star so comfortable in their own skin that they make their rules up as they go along. Blanchett’s ongoing collaboration with Armani Prive in particular has created moments that are beautiful as they are unique.

The Givenchy gown demanded that second look, seducing and intriguing us in turn. Whether you found yourself loving it or hating it, this gown commanded attention, and on the red-carpet, that’s winning half the battle. An undeniably tough wear, this was a look only Blanchett could pull off.

Also flying the flag for avant-garde fashion was ‘Homeland’ star, Claire Danes. Dressed in iconic French label Vionnet, this gown of inlaid shimmering panels of sequins and tulle layers was an automatic standout. The inky, bohemian glamour was the thinking girl’s interpretation of the ubiquitous sequinned gown that can be found at every red-carpet event. It was the Left-Bank cousin to the Dior column gown sported by Jennifer Lawrence, a signature piece from the couture house that typifies classic French glamour. While Lawrence wooed those not bowled over by her Golden Globes look; Danes appealed to those who wanted their red-carpet fashion with a cerebral edge. This was Danes at her best – proud to be different.

Another red-carpet regular who plays the game her way is ‘Mad Men’ star Elisabeth Moss. Wearing a Michael Kors red strapless gown, this was a genius pairing of an all-American designer, with an actor who is anything but apple pie. A neat finishing touch was her lipstick: the shade expertly matched to her dress, taking this look from gorgeous to no-holds-barred glamour. Worn with a fierce intelligence that informs her complex roles, this look was all about what wasn’t being said.

While most played to their strengths, others just went for broke. Julia Roberts’ monochrome tailoring at the Globes fell flat with pundits, leaving Roberts with a point to prove.

Her appearance at the SAG’s could not have been more different, turning up in a bubble-gum pink Valentino jumpsuit. It was a refreshing departure for Roberts; a joyously youthful look that thanks to the Valentino touch, did not want for sophistication. Expertly cut to suit Roberts’ leggy frame, this jumpsuit propelled Julia straight back into the limelight.

 It was an evening for colour: bright, saturated tones dominated the carpet, none more so than the eye-catching aqua-blue gown worn by Lupita Nyong’o. Designed by Gucci, this tropical show-stopper left everyone else out in the cold. The soft, chiffon petals garlanding Lupita’s neck that then fell away into an exquisitely-tailored crepe gown was nothing short of a star turn.

Lupita’s charm offensive on this year’s awards circuit has been both sustained and thorough. From her caped crusading Ralph Lauren at the Globes, to the ivory silk bandeau Calvin Klein gown at the Critics’ Choice Awards, Lupita has not put a foot wrong. For a newcomer, Lupita’s red-carpet style has been remarkable in its confidence.

It is Lupita’s confidence that is, of course, her winning hand. A fearless approach to red-carpet fashion is what designers really want from their celebrity clients: to go boldly, to dare and to risk.

Those who had their fashion ‘do-over’ at the SAG Awards succeeded not because they played it safe, but because they took a risk. An emerald-green wrap dress; an electric blue gown and a pink jumpsuit: none of these are run-of-the-mill choices, but Bullock, Adams and Roberts all redeemed themselves by gambling on their instincts.

Most of all, this carpet paid tribute to glamour that required not blanket praise, but for us to form an opinion. It was an acknowledgement by Hollywood that the best fashion does not conquer, it divides. The stars that soared this time did so because their choices were smart, sophisticated and evolved. Personal style cannot move forward unless you are prepared to move with it – a lesson that does not seem lost on this generation of stars.

The truism that getting it wrong on the red-carpet goes a long way to getting it right is more relevant now than ever before; as we all become more style-savvy, making an impression becomes even more challenging.  This doesn’t mean embracing the shock factor, but being memorable does often mean being out there on your own.

No -one’s style trajectory is perfect and that’s why we continue to watch red-carpet coverage with such anticipation. It is the same question that keeps moving us forward onto bigger, better and brighter horizons. What’s coming next?

HELEN TOPE

IN BLOOM: GOLDEN GLOBES 2014

While the Golden Globes have a reputation within the industry as being one of the more relaxed ceremonies, when it comes to the red-carpet, there is everything to play for. As the first big awards show of the season, the Globes provide an opportunity to start off your style campaign with a bang. After returning to the awards circuit after several years away, expectations could not have been any higher for Best Actress winner, Cate Blanchett.

Coming back with a powerhouse performance in ‘Blue Jasmine’, Blanchett created a major stir in Armani Prive.

This lace gown took a high neckline and scooped back as its grace notes; the exquisitely-handled lace sat proud as if moulded to the body. This dress was tailor-made for the scrutiny of a red-carpet, giving us something from every angle. It was not only a perfect performance by Blanchett, but it was a tutoring by Armani in how to create a moment.

To be dramatic without being garish is a feat best performed by experts and Armani’s gown for Blanchett was effortless in its beauty. No fuss, just top-drawer craftsmanship, all done without compromising a star’s modesty. This gown veiled and bared in equal measure and the effect was pure theatre.

Blanchett’s choice, kicking off the 2014 circuit, took the lace gown – something so familiar – to a whole new level of elegance and sophistication. It was an unexpected choice, making Blanchett a standout on a carpet that boasted plenty of highlights.

It was a night to celebrate female talents at the top of their game, both in terms of career and style. Helen Mirren made a lasting impression in an exuberantly colourful gown by Jenny Packham, and Taylor Swift also got the colour memo, wearing a two-tone gown by Carolina Herrera.

Presenter Amy Poehler also impressed with a sleek, column dress from Stella McCartney. These choices, while undeniably diverse, all had one thing in common: they perfectly illustrated where each woman was in her career. The coming-of-age charm of Swift’s gown was just as powerful a statement as Poehler’s dress that exuded a quiet confidence.

Another key trend of the evening had to be pregnancy chic, with Kerry Washington, Olivia Wilde and Drew Barrymore all turning up with a very special plus-one.

Each gown was a custom-made creation, with designers working with the stars to create a unique design that demonstrated that personal style doesn’t have to be put on hold during pregnancy. Washington kept to her love of high-fashion in an apple-white Balenciaga gown; Olivia Wilde applied her signature glamour in a tight, beaded Gucci. But the sweetest look belonged to Drew Barrymore, whose flower-strewn Monique Lhuillier gown was ultra-feminine but stayed true to Barrymore’s boho style. It was a stroke of genius, making Barrymore one of the night’s Best Dressed.

However, it was left up to new faces on this year’s carpet to provide some of the biggest ‘wow’ moments of the night. ‘Wolf of Wall Street’ star Margot Robbie made her debut in a white Gucci gown that was studded with green crystals. The look was kept modern with a sleek, minimal cut – perfectly matched by hair and make-up. This was Robbie’s chance to make Hollywood sit up and take note – and it wasn’t an opportunity lost.

Keeping it simple is always a good tip for newbies, and no-one took this more to heart than ’12 Years a Slave’ nominee, Lupita Nyong’o. Wearing a scarlet dress by Ralph Lauren, Lupita handled the red-carpet with ease and aplomb.

This caped wonder would be a bold choice for anyone – ironically, the one colour guaranteed to make you stand out on a red-carpet is red – but an astonishingly-assured debut for a newcomer. Lupita played it cool in front of the cameras, impressing across the board. This was red-carpet style with class. This Ralph Lauren gown is so striking it can only be worn any degree of success as if it were a treasured pair of battered jeans, and Nyong’o wore this show-stopping number as if it was something she wore every day. Lupita’s coolness under sartorial pressure was the lasting impression every new face wants to make.

What also piqued interest on this year’s carpet was the sight of stars not only upping their fashion game, but attempting to take their personal style to the next level.

‘Modern Family’s Sofia Vergara is a perfect case in point of not changing something that isn’t broken. Her reputation for glamming up the carpet with slinky, mermaid-tail gowns is well-founded. No-one does sex-appeal quite like Vergara.

This year, Sofia did a 180 and arrived in a romantic ball-gown from Zac Posen, accessorised by a bold turquoise collar from Lorraine Schwartz. The look divided as many as it won over; those who wanted Vixen Vergara were left disappointed. But the famous curves were still in evidence, but more alluded to this time around. It was a bold move for a star whose red carpet style is so recognisable it has become her trademark. Next year may well see Sofia returning to her fashion comfort zone, but this year can be enjoyed as an elegant (if solitary) departure.

Another surprise came from ‘Veep’ nominee Julia Louis-Dreyfus. A red-carpet regular, Julia wins plaudits for her figure-hugging metallic gowns. Keeping the same silhouette, Louis-Dreyfus went all out this year in a bright, zingy coral that just invited us to delve into the new season, head-first. It was a smart colour choice, leaving Julia looking youthful, fresh and current.

A red-carpet full of surprises is always one to remember, but the overall feeling of optimism and joie de vivre was hard to miss. Nothing felt cynical or calculated, the trends were there, but applied with subtlety and grace.

Across the board, this year’s choices were guided by love; whether that meant embracing novelty, expressing a genuine love for fashion, or looking to the future. This was a carpet in bloom, full of life and just getting started.

HELEN TOPE

A STYLE REVOLUTION: OSCARS 2013

As the Awards Season draws to a close, this year’s Oscars can boast its fair share of drama: unexpected wins, history-making moments and a coup de theatre via The White House that took everyone by surprise.
While the action on stage never seemed to take pause for breath, the pace of the red carpet was just as thrilling: even from the first arrivals, it was clear that sartorial surprises would be the theme of the night.

Anne Hathaway, one of the big winners of the night (and throughout this Awards Season), not only turned up in a different dress, but one made by a different designer. Touted as being one of the actresses expected to turn up in Valentino, Hathaway made a switch at the last minute, opting for Prada.
The pale pink gown, paired with Tiffany jewels, looked to be inspired by her post-Les Miserables crop. The simplicity of the cut, with the heavy-duty satin, referenced Sixties starlet with a modern twist. Unfortunately for Hathaway, making a last-minute switch with her gown yielded mixed praise from the fashion pundits. Wearing satin is a gamble: a notoriously difficult fabric to work with, it is also tricky to wear without puckering or creasing. The gown, though not without its charms, looked like a last minute decision: the styling looked rushed, with the jewellery chosen not working with the high neckline. Luckily for Hathaway, this was her big night, and when you have a gold statuette as your chief accessory, nothing else really matters.

The pale trend continued with both Charlize Theron and Oscar winner Jennifer Lawrence both opting for Dior Couture. It was a brilliant night for the French couture house, with Raf Simons ably demonstrating how to dress two very different women. Theron, a red-carpet regular, appeared in a piercingly-white two piece, with a beaded peplum detail. Matched with Theron’s new pixie cut, it was cool, sophisticated and modern couture at its best.

But if you wanted full-on drama, Jennifer Lawrence’s Dior gown offered it up in spades. The fitted three-quarter bodice flowing into a voluminous skirt photographed beautifully both on the carpet and at the ceremony. It never seemed to overwhelm Lawrence, even though it did at one moment threaten to halt proceedings when Jennifer slipped on the steps when collecting her award. Epic in scale, and impressive from every angle, it was a gown that endowed the winner with authority and elegance: for an actress taking her career to the next level, this dress was an inspired choice.

Nude shades got a lift when early arrival Jessica Chastain appeared on the carpet in a copper-toned gown by Armani Prive. Expertly beaded to enhance her best features, Chastain wisely accessorised with a maroon-coloured lip and softly-waved hair. It had all the Old Hollywood references you could wish for: combining traces of Veronica Lake and Ava Gardner, Chastain oozed glamour but her no-nonsense styling kept it contemporary.

Someone else who got the ‘softly softly’ memo was last year’s winner for Best Supporting Actress, Octavia Spencer. Staying loyal to one of her favourite designers, Tadashi Shoji, Spencer worked the pale and interesting trend to perfection. Wearing a nude beaded chiffon gown with a stole sweeping across her shoulders, Spencer looked every inch the returning star.

But where some chose to tread lightly, others decided to dazzle with colour and depth. Naomi Watts, nominated for ‘The Impossible’, arrived in a gunmetal gown by Armani Prive. With the asymmetric neckline looping around Watts’ shoulders, this was a directional look not for the faint of heart. Thanks to the attention to detail customary with Armani Prive, this beautifully-worked gown was no gimmick, but one of the most memorable looks of the night. You had to wonder if those who played it safe regretted their choice when seeing Naomi.

Red is always a red-carpet favourite, and it made a comeback with nominee Sally Field and presenter Jennifer Aniston appearing in scarlet Valentino. Aniston made a rare departure from her usual modus operandi of black and figure-hugging to venture into the world of couture. Her strapless gown, with typically Aniston low-maintenance styling, was unexpected, but showed that Jennifer is not a one-note fashionista.
Sally Field also impressed with a Valentino attention-grabber. Softly gathered at the waist, the long-sleeved gown was age appropriate without piling on the years. Covering up can sometimes be misconstrued as ageing up, but the sheerness of the sleeves and the emphasis by Valentino on fitting the fabric close to the body, made this nominee one of the evening’s Best Dressed.

There is always one attendee who’s happy to stand out in a crowd, and this year that person was Kerry Washington. Already proving to be one to watch after a sartorial grand-slam this Awards Season, Washington turned up to the Oscars in a coral gown by Miu Miu.
Taking the Sixties as her trend reference, this beaded bodice with column skirt was a fresh wash of colour, on a carpet where everyone else seemed to be wearing red, black or nude. Already accomplished at picking the best of the runway, this was a textbook red-carpet appearance for a woman known for her love of fashion, and the good news for Kerry is that the feeling is mutual.

Another attendee who bucked the trends was Jennifer Garner. At the Awards to support husband Ben Affleck, Garner had a fine line to tread. Wanting to dress with gravitas appropriate for the wife of a nominee, but not to draw attention away from him, striking the right balance can be almost impossible.
Thankfully, Jennifer made the right call with a plum-coloured gown by Gucci. From the front, the gown was a strapless column; but the back was covered with gloriously effervescent ruffles. A dress built for business and pleasure, this was a fun take on the traditional ‘supportive wife’ outfit. Paired with a stunning platinum diamond collar by Neil Lane, Garner’s was one of the stand-out looks of the night.

While some of those attending fell short of our expectations, there were some surprises that made this Oscars red carpet one of the most interesting in years. Some took risks, others upgraded their style and others just went all out to impress. Those who dared to be different made the biggest impact, choosing gowns that hinted of Oscars past and Oscars future. The vast majority of looks fell wide of the fashion radar, with many choosing to bypass trends altogether, opting for gowns that inspired and flattered. Rather than trying to dress to trend, the Best Dressed of the night wore gowns that defied categorisation making for a red-carpet that was bold, beautiful and full of intelligent choices. Invigorating and proudly individual, this year’s red-carpet bore witness to a style revolution.

HELEN TOPE