FOCUS ON: FACIAL TREATMENT OILS

When reviewing what I (thought) I knew about skincare, one of the biggest surprises for me was how much a leading role skincare oils can play. Along with serums and moisturisers, they are now viewed as one of the most effective ways of balancing your skin. Here’s my selection of products that really deliver results.

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OILY / COMBINATION
For someone who grew up with oily / combination skin, the idea of adding a treatment oil into my regular routine seemed like an act of lunacy. Why would I want to make a bad situation worse? What I ended up realising is that the plant-based oils launched by brands like Decleor and Clarins have ingredients in them that soothe a troubled, blemished skin, bringing it back under control. The oil texture adds a layer of long-lasting hydration, key for an oily skin that can often be desperate for moisture. It stops the cycle of the skin over-producing oil to compensate, and the skin balances, becoming easier to deal with over time.
There are some excellent treatment oils out there: the classic option is Clarins’ Lotus Treatment Oil (£33). Containing a blend of Rosewood, Geranium and Lotus extracts, this oil gently purifies the skin whilst a healthy dose of Hazelnut Oil retains vital moisture. In this oil, Clarins has perfected the balancing act, which has made the Lotus Treatment Oil a beauty classic. Use just a couple of drops patted onto the skin before you go to bed. If you want a treatment for oily skin that actually works, this is it.
One of my personal recommendations may seem like a strange choice, as it’s not specifically marketed for oily / combination skin, but the REN Vita Mineral Omega 3 Skin Serum Oil (£25) is an excellent all-rounder that’s got a lot to offer. Crucially, it contains Omegas 3, 6 and 9 – the essential fatty acids in Omegas help to reinforce the skin cell’s membrane. A healthy membrane is more able to hold water, keeping the skin looking more youthful. For someone with oily skin, the ability to hold water is even more important as a properly-hydrated skin is less reactive and prone to breakouts. I love this oil, as it just calms my skin whenever it’s a bit out of sorts but also acts as a good hydrator when I’m a bit dehydrated. Versatile and good value for money, REN gets my vote every time.
Other treatment oils for oily/ combination skin include: Dr. Hauschka Clarifying Day Oil (£25); Decleor Ylang Ylang Purifying Oil Serum (£44); Liz Earle Superskin Concentrate (£40.50)

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DRY/ DEHYDRATED
This is a tricky area. Dryness and dehydration can feel pretty similar, and it’s remarkably easy to confuse the two. Luckily for us, renowned skincare expert Caroline Hirons has clarified matters in this fabulous crib sheet:
http://www.carolinehirons.com/2011/11/dry-or-dehydrated-cheat-sheet.html
Basically, a dehydrated skin can affect any skin type, which could be an explanation if your skin has a Dr Jekyll / Mr Hyde quality to it. If you experience breakouts and blocked pores whilst your skin simultaneously feels dry, that’s definitely dehydration at work.
Dehydration is caused by a lack of water in the skin, not oil. However, if you have dry skin, this is caused by lack of oil, not water. If your skin feels tight and can be easily irritated – you probably have dry skin.
For dry skin, treatment oils really have to be up there with your cleanser and moisturiser as skincare must-haves. They will nourish your skin, making it feel revived, radiant and a whole lot more comfortable. They should be part of your daily routine, slotted in after cleansing and just before moisturiser is applied.
One of the ingredients you need to look out for if you have dry skin is glycerin. It is a humectant, which means that glycerin attracts moisture and locks it in. It will also help to maintain a normal pace of cell renewal, meaning that your skin will look fresh and glowing.
A face oil I’ve found with not only glycerin present, but Almond and Jojoba oils, is Boots Botanics’ Triple Age Renewal Smoothing Facial Oil. Containing extract of purple orchid, this oil nourishes the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines, leaving your skin looking smoother and more youthful. It’s a great budget pick at just £10.49, and a fantastic introduction to what treatment oils can do for dry skin.
However, if you’re feeling a bit more spendy, Sisley has just the product for you. Their Black Rose Precious Face Oil at £136 may be at the other end of the price spectrum, but this newly-launched product is rapidly gaining cult status.

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In terms of ingredients, Black Rose comes armed to the teeth. Rich in Omega 3 and 6 extracts, this oil also includes Padina Pavonica (the key active ingredient in Elemis’ Pro Collagen Marine Cream). Also featuring essential oils of Bulgarian Rose and Magnolia, Black Rose is a luxury experience from start to finish.
It’s a beautiful oil for any skin type, but I think for dry skin, using this regularly would prove transformative. It hydrates evenly and thoroughly, without ever feeling heavy or greasy on the skin. It performs at the highest levels every time you apply it, and if you have the means to do so, give the Sisley Black Rose oil a try. I promise it is impossible to be disappointed with this product.
For dehydrated skin, one name keeps coming up time and again: Clarins Blue Orchid Face Oil (£33). This oil contains extracts of Blue Orchid, Rosewood and Patchouli, underpinned by a base of Hazelnut Oil, which help to tone and restore moisture-starved skin.
While Blue Orchid is an absolute legend, you will notice that formulas for dehydrated skin are few and far between. There has been an assumption among some beauty companies that there’s no call for products treating dehydrated skin – we’re quite happy to use products for dry skin instead. This prejudice is being actively challenged, and thankfully, more products are on their way that will deal with the very specific issue of dehydration. I have been told that Origins will be releasing a companion piece to their phenomenally successful Night-a-Mins moisturiser. The High Potency Night-a-Mins Skin Refining Oil (£35) will be released shortly, and will join the roster of products that will make those with dehydrated skin dance for joy.
Other treatment oils for dry / dehydrated skin include: Balance Me Radiance Face Oil (£30); Organic Pharmacy Skin Rescue Oil (£29.00); REN Rose O12 Moisture Defence Oil (£42).

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SENSITIVE
It’s an understatement that sensitive skin needs gentle care. You can be reluctant to try new products as you don’t want to trigger a reaction.
I’ve had bouts of sensitivity in the past due to medication, but wouldn’t class my skin as particularly sensitive in its usual state. I have found that buying products that contain a small band of ingredients can help as it limits the potential for irritation.
Rosehip oil is a great ingredient for sensitive skin, containing antioxidants and essential fatty acids, which help reduce the appearance of fine lines, plumping out the skin. It’s not something you often think of with sensitive skin, but Rosehip oil is a great anti-ageing ingredient for those with sensitive skin. If the more traditional anti-agers aren’t an option for you, a couple of drops of Rosehip every night will give your skin a healthy, from-the-inside-out glow. Antipodes’ Divine Face Oil contains Avocado and Rosehip Oil where 100% of the ingredients are of natural origin and Certified Organic. The texture of this oil is a little thicker, but it soaks into the skin, leaving it feeling calm and nourished. It’s a particular favourite of mine, and at £19.99, it’s one of the more budget friendly options out there.
With regards to traditional, calming treatments, Almond oil is a key ingredient to look out for (assuming of course you don’t have a nut allergy). One of my favourite products for sensitivity is the Weleda Almond Soothing Facial Oil (£15.95). Fragrance-free, this oil not only soothes, but provides a protective layer over the skin. It’s gentleness personified, and a great layer to add on when my skin’s a little unbalanced as it decreases the chance of a reaction to any further products I might add.
Another oil that stays within the ‘protective’ theme comes from Stockholm-based brand Estelle and Thild. Their Fragrance-Free Facial Oil is Certified Organic and contains all of the ingredients that sensitive skin adores: Jojoba, Almond and Avocado Oil, Vitamin E extract and Omegas 3, 6 and 9. It is a deeply nourishing treatment, one I’d recommend for either layering under a night cream or wearing on its own. At £42 it is a considered purchase, but if sensitivity is an ongoing concern for you, spending extra on a targeted treatment can really help to tackle reactions and flare-ups.
Other treatment oils for sensitive skin include Balance Me Rose Otto Facial Oil (£32); Nourish Argan Skin Rescue Treatment (£21); The Body Shop Vitamin E Overnight Serum-in-Oil (£13)

HELEN TOPE

BUDGET BEAUTY BUYS: £25 AND UNDER

I do appreciate that, after the £20 mark, the right to call yourself a budget product is null and void for a lot of people. What I have tried to do here is to find good value for money – skincare and beauty items that give you that little bit extra. There are old favourites here as well as new discoveries.

REN Vita Mineral Omega 3 Optimum Skin Oil – £25 Otherwise known as the product that taught me ‘how to love treatment oils’.
Being the owner of skin that likes to sit somewhere between combination and dehydrated (so convenient), finding a pre-moisturiser treatment isn’t always easy. I don’t know if I’m quite ready for the hard-hitting, anti-ageing serums yet, but my skin definitely needed something extra.
The turning point was coming across Caroline Hirons’ blog (www.carolinehirons.com) A facialist with many years’ experience behind her, her advice is impartial, honest and trustworthy. I read Caroline’s thoughts on the REN Omega 3 Optimum Skin Oil, and decided to try it.
I followed Caroline’s instructions to the letter. Oils are best applied sparingly – a couple of drops per application are more than enough. Loaded with Omegas 3, 6 and 9, this oil is touted by REN as a means of ‘dramatically improving moisture levels’, whilst reducing the signs of premature ageing and sensitivity.
I found this oil to be perfect layered under moisturiser – the feel of the oil is effortlessly lightweight, even on the oilier parts of my skin. After just a few uses, I was hooked. This was the treatment oil for me.
Since then, I have used this before bed, first thing in the morning: this oil slots in effortlessly with other products, and you can rely on it to not block pores or cause sensitivity issues. It has been a brilliant introduction into the world of treatment oils, and a great insight into how just one item of quality skincare can lift your whole routine.
There are plenty of great treatment oils out there (Clarins Blue Orchid, Sisley Black Rose, Antipodes Avocado and Rosehip…I could go on), but the REN Vita Mineral Omega Skin Oil holds a very special place in my heart. I’ve just finished my first bottle (it took AGES to finish) and a second was ready, waiting in the wings. REN has changed my mind about a skincare product I assumed, for years, I couldn’t use, and that in itself is reason enough for it to be included in my Budget Buys. The value it offers is astounding; both in terms of longevity and the skincare experience it gives back to you. This is a forever kind of product – be warned.

Nourish Relax Hydrating Peptide Serum – £20
Packed with hyaluronic acid and soothing, calming plant-derived ingredients (including lavender oil and ginger extract), this serum cools and calms irritated skin. It’s a great choice as a daily pre-moisturiser treatment for sensitive skin, but also works as a stand-by for skin that gets occasional issues with reaction and sensitivity. The serum is delivered in a medium weight gel texture, nice and light for quick application.
I bought this on a whim when I was experiencing a few allergic reactions after changing medications, and found this worked brilliantly at calming and soothing my highly confused skin.
The best part about the Nourish serum is the price – it performs exactly as promised, and does so for £20. A good serum under £30 is near impossible to find (and the really good ones aren’t available for less than £40) – this product defies the odds and I would recommend getting to know this range a little better.

Indeed Labs Eysilix Instant Eye Rescue – £24.99 You may have noticed how few eye creams have been featured in my Budget Buys series. If you’re after more results than a general plumping, hydrating effect – the ingredients list starts increasing, and eye creams tend to start getting expensive. There are some excellent ones around the £60 price mark (Sunday Riley, Elemis, Tata Harper) but if you’re on a budget, little gems can be found in the most surprising places.
Until recently, I had bypassed the corner in my local Boots where Indeed Labs were stocked. It was nothing personal, but I didn’t think the range really had anything to offer me that I wasn’t already getting from other brands.
However, a chance recommendation alerted me to the Indeed Labs eye cream. At just under £25, I was sceptical but gave it a go.
Within a few uses, it was clear I wasn’t using any old budget product. The Eysilix texture (firm but pliable) is identical to creams at double the price. For me, a good eye cream has to have a bit of life in it – there’s nothing worse than dabbing on a watery, non-committal cream. It goes everywhere, creating waste, whereas a firmer cream stays where it’s needed and does the most good.
Long-term, the effect of Eysilix on my skin was one of gentle firming and lifting. My eye area felt supported without that taut, tugging sensation that’s just uncomfortable and slightly strange.
The fine lines around my eyes were also plumped out, the eye area was nicely and evenly hydrated. The Eysilix, in terms of performance, reminded me a lot of the Elemis eye products – good all-rounders that get the job done. The reason Eysilix works so effectively is that it contains many of the same ingredients and properties as the more expensive products – if you’re looking for an introduction to eye care, this is would be pretty much perfect. There are cheaper options out there, but spending a little extra on something that actually works – totally worth it.
http://www.boots.com/en/Indeed-Labs-Eysilix-Instant-Eye-Rescue_1282805/

Bliss Grapefruit & Aloe Body Butter – £22 Good body products are fairly easy to find, but a great one? Going from good to great in body care means you have to offer something quite simply exceptional.
Luckily for us, Bliss does exceptional as a matter of course. Their skincare (especially their Triple Oxygen range) gets a lot of attention, but their body care also deserves to be lauded.
I have been a fan of their Body Butter for years now – the skin-smoothing formula is substantial but never greasy. I have used it in the height of summer and in the depths of winter without any problems – most body care items simply aren’t this versatile. Using a blend of coconut oil and vitamin E to lock in moisture, this nourishing formulation actually works harder on drier patches of skin, gliding over and gently hydrating the areas that need less help.
For those who don’t do fragrance, Bliss has created a ‘naked’ version of their body butter, but if you do love a bit of scent, the aromas are uplifting and invigorating, and refreshingly off the beaten track. From their iconic Lemon and Sage scent, to (my personal favourite) Blood Orange and White Pepper, these really are luxurious products from start to finish. You can get cheaper body products, but Bliss Body Butter is a beauty icon for a reason. It works beautifully every time, and who doesn’t want a bit of reliability in their life?
http://www.blissworld.co.uk/bath-body/shop-by-category/body-moisturisers/bliss-pink-grapefruit-aloe-body-butter/

Lulu’s Time Bomb Complexion Cocktail B12 – £24 I know, I know – celebrity-backed skincare ranges don’t have the best reputation. But forget those dodgy commercials from the Nineties – this is a skincare range with serious clout.
Lulu has taken anti-ageing as the guiding principle of her collection, creating a range that really gets to grips with the issues of moisture loss, lack of firmness and fine lines. This skincare range did serious time in the lab before being launched to the public and it really shows. I had to narrow it down for my Budget Beauty Buys, but you can pretty much delve into the Time Bomb range at random and pick yourself a winner. The excellent Troubleshooter Neck and Jaw Cream, the Flashback Night Cream and Youth Juice Secret Oil are cult favourites, while the newly launched Powerball Moisturiser is winning rave reviews from beauty editors.
But for my Budget Buys, it had to be the Complexion Cocktail. A lotion that slots in after your cleanse and before you apply moisturiser, this is a gorgeous concoction that treats and revives your skin. Packed with hyaluronic acid plus Vitamins C and B12, this treatment lotion can be gently applied with cotton wool and left on the skin to get to work. Don’t be put off by the 100ml bottle – I thought it was tiny when I first bought it. I’ve been using it several times a week for months, and there’s still plenty left. The packaging allows you to decant the product drop by drop – a few drops on a cotton wool pad are ample for one application.
I have really noticed a difference on the days where I don’t use Complexion Cocktail – my skin looks dull, flat and tired. If you do the basics, but want to take your skincare to the next level – this treatment lotion is a great, no-nonsense step that yields real results.
There are other options too, if lack of brightness isn’t your primary skin concern. Complexion Cocktail also comes in two other formulations: H2Omega (suited to dehydrated, dry skin) and Chlorophyll (fighting the signs of ageing and sun damage). Like I said – this is a very different celebrity range.

The Body Shop Drops of Youth Bouncy Sleeping Mask – £22
If you haven’t shopped at The Body Shop for a while, you may be surprised at the £22 price tag, but it’s safe to say that The Body Shop has undergone some changes.
Although I must admit to missing some of their discontinued products (please bring back Dewberry shower gel!), I have liked The Body Shop’s focus on creating high-performance skincare for the high-street. They’ve made some cracking products, from extending the Camomile cleansing range to developing the Nutriganics range into a force to be reckoned with.
The Drops of Youth Sleeping Mask is one of their newest, and most innovative, products to date. As the name suggests, it’s an overnight mask. Containing Edelweiss stem cells, this is a mask designed to smooth and re-hydrate the skin.
A unique, literally ‘bouncy’ texture, this lightweight method of imparting moisture into the skin has been introduced by companies such as Shu Uemura and Oskia. Used most commonly in moisturisers, it’s a perfect way of delivering hydration in high- humidity environments.
The texture of the mask, though, is where it gets really interesting. It will be quite unlike anything you’ve tried before. A cream-gel format, getting it out of the tub will take some getting used to.
Once this bouncy mask comes into contact with body temperature, it softens, becoming beautifully malleable. However, once you’ve got the hang of it, you realise how little you actually need to use in order to see results. The ‘memory foam’ texture is great for gently moulding to your face while you’re asleep – it won’t slide off during the night (tip: give it 5-10 minutes after application before hitting the hay). If you suffer from dry skin, dehydration, or just have been having one too many late nights, this mask will do a great job of hydrating without overloading. The texture of this mask, I will be honest, will be a Marmite issue: you will either come to love it or you won’t. But it’s worth trying because it’s real skincare innovation for just £22.

Liz Earle Skin Repair moisturiser (50ml) – £20.25 One my perennial favourites, while others wax lyrical about Cleanse and Polish (and rightly so), I’m a Skin Repair girl through and through.
Available in three different formulations, to suit every skin type from dry to oily, the Skin Repair moisturiser alters itself to suit you. The different formulations are individual in terms of their weight and texture: the dry/sensitive Skin Repair is dense and buttery (but never greasy); whereas its lightweight companion for oily skin is a fresh, smooth lotion that gives much-needed hydration without clogging pores.
Each type of Skin Repair is a feat of excellence in itself, and testament to the Liz Earle philosophy of paying attention to what your skin needs now, not following beauty trends or chasing the latest ingredients. This range wins award after award because it works by balancing your skin, no matter what its concerns are. It really is a skincare line you can use for life – there’s no optimum age range – I couldn’t pin down who the typical Liz Earle customer is. They are a brand I reach for time and again when my skin is out of sorts. Keeping customers loyal is no easy task, but it’s one that Liz Earle manages with aplomb.
http://uk.lizearle.com/cleanse-tone-moisturise/skin-repair-moisturiser-normal-combination.html

Chanel Rouge Coco Shine hydrating sheer lipstick – £25 If you want make-up and you want it luxurious, you can’t beat a bit of Chanel. Their foundations, bronzers and nail polishes all have the kind of reputation the average marketing budget just can’t touch. A combination of must-have shades and clever formulations have kept Chanel in the game, impressive when you consider how luxury beauty has become increasingly crowded with newer names such as Charlotte Tilbury and Tom Ford.
Recreating Chanel’s allure would be almost impossible for a new beauty brand – a lot of the brand’s magic is in its history. But while Chanel’s heritage does a lot of the work, the brand keeps fresh with new products. One of my favourite launches in recent years has to be their Rouge Coco Shine hydrating sheer lipstick.
Say ‘sheer lipstick’ and your first impressions can vary wildly. From gorgeous, easy-to-wear tints to pigment-starved, washed-out shades, my experience of sheer lipstick has been varied. Getting it right means getting the balance between colour pay-off and wearability: you should be able to apply a sheer lipstick in the dark. In a moving car. That has a dodgy suspension.
I’m pleased to say that Chanel passes the dodgy suspension test every time (now there’s a review!) – the texture of the lipstick is lightly creamy. Not so much so that it slides about, or melts into a big gooey mess, but there’s enough slip to make confident, no-mirror application a cinch, rather than a gamble.
The colour pay-off is excellent – each shade is clearly defined: reds are soft and dewy; pinks are rich and rosy. Designed to give you up to 8 hours of hydration, this hybrid of balm and lipstick leaves a gorgeous, gentle shine. My particular favourite is ‘Boy’ – named after Coco Chanel’s lover and muse, Arthur ‘Boy’ Capel. With each shade in this range taking inspiration from Coco’s formative years, this is a beautifully designed corner of the Chanel beauty experience, with history and innovation coming together.
http://www.chanel.com/en_SG/fragrance-beauty/Makeup—Lipsticks—ROUGE-COCO-SHINE-118787?sku=118796

Ole Henriksen Walnut Complexion Scrub – £26 I’m allowing myself one cheat – and the deceptively simple walnut face scrub from Ole Henriksen earns your extra £1. Using very finely milled walnut powder, this densely-textured scrub glides around the skin with ease, leaving you with a softly glowing complexion. Some scrubs play too rough, but the consistency of the Ole Henriksen is perfectly judged. I wouldn’t recommend a granular scrub for very acne-prone skin, but for everyone else (especially if you’re experiencing dull, sluggish skin), this is the ideal boost to get your skin feeling and looking younger.
http://www.feelunique.com/p/Ole_Henriksen_Walnut_Complexion_Scrub_50g

Dior Diorshow Backstage Mascara – £24.50 This is the beauty equivalent of my very own Proustian madeleine. The taste of the sweet pastry prompted Marcel Proust to recall his childhood and begin writing an almost endless series of novels. While Proust’s memory jog was thanks to a simple childhood treat –for me, it’s Dior mascara.
My first ever experience of luxury cosmetics happened when I was around 10. My mum loved (and still does) Dior’s Poison perfume. A staple of the Eighties, my mum once bought this scent at a beauty counter when they were doing a free gift with purchase. The gift? A very handsome Dior eyeshadow compact set and mascara. My mum’s not that keen on make-up, but I begged her to take the free gift.
We got the eyeshadow and mascara set home and I opened them with all the reverence you would give a priceless artefact. Imprinted with the Dior logo, I can still remember the eyeshadows: four in all –one a burnished gold, a deep purple, an emerald green and a shimmering black.
The eyeshadows themselves I remember being very velvety to the touch – but the colours were clearly designed to suit a woman in her 40’s who needed a make-up look to match her Armani suit and brick-like mobile phone. I was 10 years old with a pudding bowl haircut. The early experiments I instigated were largely unsuccessful.
But the mascara: it was a small size but generous. I applied it to my lashes and the effect was extraordinary. I do have naturally curly lashes but the Dior mascara made them spring to life. Looking back, I think the formulation must have been volumising, as I remember it separated my lashes brilliantly, without overloading them and causing the spider effect.
I was hooked after the first use, and practised my make-up skills using this set. I learned that less is definitely more, and barring a highly unfortunate incident with self-tan, I emerged from my teenage years largely unscathed by make-up horrors. Dior continues to hold a special place in my heart – then, as now, it stood for Parisian glamour and sophistication that may have seemed out of reach to a chubby little schoolgirl, but the fact it was a glamour I could apply to my own face made me feel included. Like Proust’s madeleine, Dior calls me back – and it’s a happy, familiar place.
http://www.boots.com/en/DIOR-DIORSHOW-Backstage-Mascara_12964/

HELEN TOPE

TRY ONE THING: LUXURY SKINCARE

(Two of my loves: great skincare and great books)

When it comes to skincare, I am definitely equal opportunities. I think it’s important to keep an open mind as to what can work for you – I’ve never assumed that big brands know best. Some of the most significant finds in my skincare journey have been mid-priced buys; some could even be safely classed as budget.
That being said, I’ve always kept an eye on the developments at the top end of the beauty industry. Brands such as Sunday Riley and Tata Harper are combining lab technology with plant extracts to produce products that are outselling the more traditional luxury beauty names.
I have dipped my toe in the luxe market once before – my love for the Tata Harper Regenerating Cleanser is true and pure – if you can get your hands on it (cough…Space NK website…), its no-holds-barred excellence will knock you for six. But I haven’t gone for a big-name big brand (eg: Chanel, YSL, Estee Lauder) for quite a while. I’ve bought a blusher here, a Touche Eclat there, but nothing skincare-related. My needs were met by smaller brands, so I didn’t really bother with that end of the beauty hall.
But as my birthday rolled round, I got the opportunity to dive back in that very exclusive pool. My product of choice this time was a very easy decision. New on the market, and with a wealth of goodwill behind it, I opted for Sisley’s Black Rose Precious Face Oil.
I did my groundwork first, researching it online, reading consumer reviews and beauty press beforehand. This new launch for Sisley has put this luxury brand front and centre – this product has wowed bloggers and editors across the board. This was the product of the moment – and I wasn’t going to miss an opportunity to try it.

At £136, this is the most expensive beauty product I’ve ever purchased. My normal budget usually has a ceiling of around £50 for an individual item, and that item has to be pretty darn fabulous to warrant that amount of spend. But, armed with birthday money and a sense of the intrepid, I approached the Sisley counter and made my purchase.
Getting the Black Rose oil home, I was struck by the size of the bottle. At 25ml, it was a more generous amount than I’d imagined; this product has a shelf-life (opened) of 12 months – and at a few drops per use, it would take you a year to use it all up. The idea that luxury brands are flash over substance, offering poor value for money simply isn’t true: the concentration of ingredients used by quality brands means that less is needed to make an impact.
In terms of ingredients, Black Rose comes armed to the teeth. Rich in Omega 3 and 6 extracts, this oil also includes Padina Pavonica (the key active ingredient in Elemis’ Pro Collagen Marine Cream – another beauty notable). Also featuring essential oils of Bulgarian Rose and Magnolia, Black Rose intends to be a luxury experience from start to finish.

The main reason I selected Black Rose Precious Face Oil over other cult products in the Sisley range, is that I have combination skin, but with patches of dry / dehydrated skin that are difficult to treat. It’s an issue that gets worse during the winter, and striking a balance between hydrating and not causing breakouts is not always easy. For me, it’s often a fine line between nourished and overwhelmed.
My first surprise on using Black Rose was how lightly textured the oil was. Not greasy in any way, the lightness made application very easy and comfortable even on a skin that veers towards combination. Even with just the few drops per use that are recommended by Sisley, the oil is brilliantly mobile – a little really does go a long way. Don’t be tempted to use more in order to speed up the results – you will end up wasting product. A couple of drops are the perfect dose.
The effects of Black Rose were immediate: smooth, even hydration that lasted for hours after application. This was the most impressive aspect of the product for me – I’m used to accumulative results from using products regularly, but Black Rose worked from the very first use.

The softening, hydrating effect lasted in-between uses, with my skin feeling comfortable, soothed and under control even on days I hadn’t used the oil. To get the most out of this product, applying it once a day is more than enough – even if you have exceptionally dry skin.
I’ve only used this oil for a few weeks, but what is becoming very clear is that this product has outperformed every oil, serum and moisturiser I’ve tried before. It makes a material, measurable difference to the hydration levels in your skin, meaning that the rest of your skincare products work more efficiently because they’re not battling against a skin that’s starved of moisture.
If you’ve skin that’s perfectly balanced – put that purse away. Sisley’s Black Rose isn’t for you. But if you have skin that’s dry, irritated or prone to be reactive, the balancing, soothing properties of this oil could be a brilliant investment that could transform the way your skin looks and feels.

At £136, Black Rose Precious Oil is a considered purchase at pretty much every budget level. But if my experience is anything to go by, Sisley has made me revise my view of luxury skincare – this is a hard-working product that earns its stripes – nothing is wasted, nothing is there for show.
Having said that, the packaging is gorgeous (who wouldn’t love that little bottle on their dresser?), but the amount of research and development that’s gone into this product is what’s so impressive. Sisley have taken their time with this launch and it shows: Black Rose really does deliver on what it promises, right from the very first application. With a product that’s been lauded with such hype and praise, there’s always a chance your expectations won’t be met – but Sisley have re-set the bar for skincare excellence, and Black Rose has all the makings of a true beauty classic.

HELEN TOPE

BEAUTY REVIEW 2014

For my first post of 2015, I’m keeping things simple. This is a review of beauty products I have discovered during the past 12 months. Some are new launches, others are old hands at the beauty game – but if it made a material difference to my skin, it made the list.

(L-R: The Body Shop Camomile Cleansing Butter, Tata Harper Regenerating Cleanser, REN No. 1 Purity Cleansing Balm)

Cleanser
As far as my skincare routine is concerned, 2014 has definitely been the year of the cleanser: balms, oils, creams and waters – I’ve tried a bit of everything. While I think that your formulation of choice should be between you and your beauty supplier, it’s really been brought home to me just how important a role cleansing plays in getting your skin to look and feel better.
I started with the classics: Liz Earle’s Cleanse and Polish (still a favourite) and REN’s Clear / Calm Clarifying Cleanser which made light work of any troublesome blemishes. However, as I got a little more comfortable with the concept of a non-foaming cleanser, I started to branch out into untried territory.
Up until very recently, I was not familiar with skincare expert and namesake brand, Tata Harper. Working in Vermont, she produces products that are completely free of synthetic and chemical ingredients. Non-toxic, plant-based technology forms the basis of the Tata Harper range – and these products pack a serious punch when it comes to performance.
On a chance recommendation, I tried the Tata Harper Regenerating Cleanser (£60). While it is most certainly the most expensive cleanser I have ever purchased, every time I use it I am further convinced that it is one of the best beauty products I’ve ever come across. Slightly gritty in texture, the Regenerating Cleanser contains apricot seed powder, pomegranate enzymes and willow bark – all of which combine to form an exfoliating, clarifying product mild enough to use every day. It doesn’t leave your skin feeling stripped: this cleanser neatly sloughs off dead skin cells, leaving behind fresh, glowing skin. The granular particles are so small they rinse away easily, making this ideal for a quick morning cleanse.
As you can tell, I’m definitely a convert – and if you fancy making regular cleansing one of your New Year’s Resolutions – this is an amazing place to start. Oh, and the aroma is absolutely incredible. You will be hooked.
Other favourite cleansers included: Rodial Dragon’s Blood Cleansing Water (£29), The Body Shop Camomile Cleansing Butter (£12)

Exfoliation
If you’ve got even a passing interest in beauty matters, you can’t have helped but notice that the mega, all-conquering moisturiser isn’t garnering as much attention as it used to. The concept of putting all your eggs in one beauty basket now seems a little old-fashioned; relying on one product to save your skin from a poor cleansing routine and non-existent use of exfoliators and masks.

(L-R: First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads, Murad AHA / BHA Exfoliating Cleanser)

We’re starting to recognise that the steps that lead up to the moisturiser are just as important – if not more so. A good skincare routine doesn’t need to be endless or overly complicated – using just a couple of good quality, high performance products can make a huge amount of difference.
If you’ve avoided exfoliating in the past, a new generation of exfoliants are determined to win you over. Eschewing the traditional scrub formula, these new exfoliants are non-granular and a cinch to use.
Whether as a liquid or in little product-soaked pads, the exfoliator as scrub is rapidly taking a back seat to these resurfacing, glow-getting miracle workers. If any product has made a material difference to the texture and appearance of my skin, it’s the FAB First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance pads (£20.50). Small but very effective, they can be swept over a cleansed skin and…that’s it. That’s about as tricky as it gets. The genius part of this type of exfoliation is that there are no excuses for getting on board: no gritty bits left in your hair; no worries about granules scratching a blemish and transferring infection; no mess, no fuss. There are definitely pricier exfoliator pads out there – but First Aid Beauty’s version is a good price for an extremely impressive product.
Other favourite exfoliators have included: Ole Henriksen Walnut Complexion Scrub (£26), Murad AHA / BHA Exfoliating Cleanser (£34)

Treatment oil
As someone with long-term combination skin which also leaned towards dehydration (despite mine and Evian’s best efforts), the concept of putting oil on my face still felt like a bridge too far. A treatment best left the reserve of dry skin.

(L-R: Trilogy Certified Organic Rosehip Oil, REN Vita Mineral Omega 3 Optimum Skin Serum Oil)

But my skincare routine, though adequate, had at this point reached an impasse. My skin wasn’t looking any worse, but it had stopped improving. A skincare rut is always tricky to manoeuvre your way out of: trying new products or application techniques require a leap of faith. I looked for recommendations, opinions. I researched, weighed my options and ended up trying the REN Vita Mineral Omega 3 Optimum Skin Oil (£23). It was an absolute revelation: calming and balancing my dehydrated skin without it ever feeling overloaded or overwhelmed. The oil texture was also a surprise: much lighter than I was expecting. It sank into my skin easily without leaving an oily residue – making it the perfect pre-moisturiser treatment.
The reason why oils work so harmoniously with our skin is that they are ‘lipophilic’: they are able to pass through the lipid (outermost) layer of your skin faster, plumping the skin with moisture more effectively. It’s also a great way of delivering highly-concentrated ingredients to your skin, using a texture that your skin will readily recognise and accept. A year ago I didn’t even know what ‘lipophilic’ meant….look at me now, kids. Look at me now.
Other favourite treatment oils included: Trilogy Certified Organic Rosehip Oil (£16.50 for 20ml), Weleda Soothing Facial Almond Oil (£14.95)

Moisturiser
While I have spent this year exploring new formulations, it never hurts to review the basics. I firmly believe that a good moisturiser doesn’t have to cost the earth: it’s a myth that expense always equals excellence.
I’ve tried mid-priced moisturisers for the most part – and have found a fairly decent product can be found for the £30 mark. While Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream was a very close contender for my favourite of the year, Murad’s Skin Perfecting Day Cream Age Reform SPF30 wowed me consistently and thoroughly.

(L-R: Embryolisse Lait-Creme Concentre, Korres Wild Rose Brightening Cream, Neal’s Yard Rose & Almond Night Cream)

It was so good I ended up cutting open the tube and scooping out the Murad-y goodness within so I didn’t miss out on a drop of fabulous product. It was the first moisturiser I have tried where the moisturiser went where it seemed most needed, meaning I ended up using less and less as time went on. At £39, Age Reform is not a budget buy, but not so outrageously expensive you’d have to live on baked beans for a month in order to afford it. This is the perfect middle-of-the-road product. The term ‘middle-of-the-road’ is often used in a derogatory way, but here I mean it to represent Age Reform’s best qualities.
It is not an extreme, anti-ageing moisturiser so packed with ingredients the skin gets overwhelmed and reacts with breakouts or sensitivity. It is has enough active ingredient to make a difference, but not at the expense of your skin’s general wellbeing. Age Reform’s moisturiser is perfectly balanced, and your skin cannot help but respond favourably. Containing lecithin to plump out the skin, and borage seed oil (an ingredient you’ll hear much more of in 2015), this moisturiser offers hydration that just feels damn good on the skin. There’s no other way to put it. A good moisturiser is hard to find – and when you find one as good as this, love it, appreciate it – it may be the best investment you’ll make all year.
Other favourite moisturisers have included: Neal’s Yard Remedies Rehydrating Rose and Almond Night Cream (£22.99 on Amazon), Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream (£24)

(L-R: Nip + Fab Dragon’s Blood Plumping Mask, Weleda Skin Food, Time Bomb Complexion Cocktail B12)

I spent 2014 getting to know brands and products that, a year ago, were completely unfamiliar to me. It really has been a year of discovery: turns out for me a good cleansing routine was the key to getting my skin under control. It was a total lightbulb moment for me – I had assumed my skincare routine was good because I did all the extras (masks, serums etc) but thorough cleansing was the thing my skin needed – and responded to – the most.
Your lightbulb moment may be different: a liquid exfoliant or fantastic treatment oil could be your key to better skin. I would urge you to explore: read reviews and blogs, listen to experts and then make up your own mind.
Thanks to advances in both plant and lab-based technology, changing up your skincare routine is less of a gamble than it used to be. There is still an element of trial and error, but it’s vital to be open to the formulations and textures that may suit you. The most exciting brands at the moment are breaking apart the old rules to treat skincare concerns speedily and effectively. It’s a big skincare world out there and there is a product and range somewhere that’s perfect for you: to put it simply, if you want to shake things up, there’s no better time than now.

HELEN TOPE