When reviewing what I (thought) I knew about skincare, one of the biggest surprises for me was how much a leading role skincare oils can play. Along with serums and moisturisers, they are now viewed as one of the most effective ways of balancing your skin. Here’s my selection of products that really deliver results.
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OILY / COMBINATION
For someone who grew up with oily / combination skin, the idea of adding a treatment oil into my regular routine seemed like an act of lunacy. Why would I want to make a bad situation worse? What I ended up realising is that the plant-based oils launched by brands like Decleor and Clarins have ingredients in them that soothe a troubled, blemished skin, bringing it back under control. The oil texture adds a layer of long-lasting hydration, key for an oily skin that can often be desperate for moisture. It stops the cycle of the skin over-producing oil to compensate, and the skin balances, becoming easier to deal with over time.
There are some excellent treatment oils out there: the classic option is Clarins’ Lotus Treatment Oil (£33). Containing a blend of Rosewood, Geranium and Lotus extracts, this oil gently purifies the skin whilst a healthy dose of Hazelnut Oil retains vital moisture. In this oil, Clarins has perfected the balancing act, which has made the Lotus Treatment Oil a beauty classic. Use just a couple of drops patted onto the skin before you go to bed. If you want a treatment for oily skin that actually works, this is it.
One of my personal recommendations may seem like a strange choice, as it’s not specifically marketed for oily / combination skin, but the REN Vita Mineral Omega 3 Skin Serum Oil (£25) is an excellent all-rounder that’s got a lot to offer. Crucially, it contains Omegas 3, 6 and 9 – the essential fatty acids in Omegas help to reinforce the skin cell’s membrane. A healthy membrane is more able to hold water, keeping the skin looking more youthful. For someone with oily skin, the ability to hold water is even more important as a properly-hydrated skin is less reactive and prone to breakouts. I love this oil, as it just calms my skin whenever it’s a bit out of sorts but also acts as a good hydrator when I’m a bit dehydrated. Versatile and good value for money, REN gets my vote every time.
Other treatment oils for oily/ combination skin include: Dr. Hauschka Clarifying Day Oil (£25); Decleor Ylang Ylang Purifying Oil Serum (£44); Liz Earle Superskin Concentrate (£40.50)
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DRY/ DEHYDRATED
This is a tricky area. Dryness and dehydration can feel pretty similar, and it’s remarkably easy to confuse the two. Luckily for us, renowned skincare expert Caroline Hirons has clarified matters in this fabulous crib sheet:
http://www.carolinehirons.com/2011/11/dry-or-dehydrated-cheat-sheet.html
Basically, a dehydrated skin can affect any skin type, which could be an explanation if your skin has a Dr Jekyll / Mr Hyde quality to it. If you experience breakouts and blocked pores whilst your skin simultaneously feels dry, that’s definitely dehydration at work.
Dehydration is caused by a lack of water in the skin, not oil. However, if you have dry skin, this is caused by lack of oil, not water. If your skin feels tight and can be easily irritated – you probably have dry skin.
For dry skin, treatment oils really have to be up there with your cleanser and moisturiser as skincare must-haves. They will nourish your skin, making it feel revived, radiant and a whole lot more comfortable. They should be part of your daily routine, slotted in after cleansing and just before moisturiser is applied.
One of the ingredients you need to look out for if you have dry skin is glycerin. It is a humectant, which means that glycerin attracts moisture and locks it in. It will also help to maintain a normal pace of cell renewal, meaning that your skin will look fresh and glowing.
A face oil I’ve found with not only glycerin present, but Almond and Jojoba oils, is Boots Botanics’ Triple Age Renewal Smoothing Facial Oil. Containing extract of purple orchid, this oil nourishes the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines, leaving your skin looking smoother and more youthful. It’s a great budget pick at just £10.49, and a fantastic introduction to what treatment oils can do for dry skin.
However, if you’re feeling a bit more spendy, Sisley has just the product for you. Their Black Rose Precious Face Oil at £136 may be at the other end of the price spectrum, but this newly-launched product is rapidly gaining cult status.
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In terms of ingredients, Black Rose comes armed to the teeth. Rich in Omega 3 and 6 extracts, this oil also includes Padina Pavonica (the key active ingredient in Elemis’ Pro Collagen Marine Cream). Also featuring essential oils of Bulgarian Rose and Magnolia, Black Rose is a luxury experience from start to finish.
It’s a beautiful oil for any skin type, but I think for dry skin, using this regularly would prove transformative. It hydrates evenly and thoroughly, without ever feeling heavy or greasy on the skin. It performs at the highest levels every time you apply it, and if you have the means to do so, give the Sisley Black Rose oil a try. I promise it is impossible to be disappointed with this product.
For dehydrated skin, one name keeps coming up time and again: Clarins Blue Orchid Face Oil (£33). This oil contains extracts of Blue Orchid, Rosewood and Patchouli, underpinned by a base of Hazelnut Oil, which help to tone and restore moisture-starved skin.
While Blue Orchid is an absolute legend, you will notice that formulas for dehydrated skin are few and far between. There has been an assumption among some beauty companies that there’s no call for products treating dehydrated skin – we’re quite happy to use products for dry skin instead. This prejudice is being actively challenged, and thankfully, more products are on their way that will deal with the very specific issue of dehydration. I have been told that Origins will be releasing a companion piece to their phenomenally successful Night-a-Mins moisturiser. The High Potency Night-a-Mins Skin Refining Oil (£35) will be released shortly, and will join the roster of products that will make those with dehydrated skin dance for joy.
Other treatment oils for dry / dehydrated skin include: Balance Me Radiance Face Oil (£30); Organic Pharmacy Skin Rescue Oil (£29.00); REN Rose O12 Moisture Defence Oil (£42).
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SENSITIVE
It’s an understatement that sensitive skin needs gentle care. You can be reluctant to try new products as you don’t want to trigger a reaction.
I’ve had bouts of sensitivity in the past due to medication, but wouldn’t class my skin as particularly sensitive in its usual state. I have found that buying products that contain a small band of ingredients can help as it limits the potential for irritation.
Rosehip oil is a great ingredient for sensitive skin, containing antioxidants and essential fatty acids, which help reduce the appearance of fine lines, plumping out the skin. It’s not something you often think of with sensitive skin, but Rosehip oil is a great anti-ageing ingredient for those with sensitive skin. If the more traditional anti-agers aren’t an option for you, a couple of drops of Rosehip every night will give your skin a healthy, from-the-inside-out glow. Antipodes’ Divine Face Oil contains Avocado and Rosehip Oil where 100% of the ingredients are of natural origin and Certified Organic. The texture of this oil is a little thicker, but it soaks into the skin, leaving it feeling calm and nourished. It’s a particular favourite of mine, and at £19.99, it’s one of the more budget friendly options out there.
With regards to traditional, calming treatments, Almond oil is a key ingredient to look out for (assuming of course you don’t have a nut allergy). One of my favourite products for sensitivity is the Weleda Almond Soothing Facial Oil (£15.95). Fragrance-free, this oil not only soothes, but provides a protective layer over the skin. It’s gentleness personified, and a great layer to add on when my skin’s a little unbalanced as it decreases the chance of a reaction to any further products I might add.
Another oil that stays within the ‘protective’ theme comes from Stockholm-based brand Estelle and Thild. Their Fragrance-Free Facial Oil is Certified Organic and contains all of the ingredients that sensitive skin adores: Jojoba, Almond and Avocado Oil, Vitamin E extract and Omegas 3, 6 and 9. It is a deeply nourishing treatment, one I’d recommend for either layering under a night cream or wearing on its own. At £42 it is a considered purchase, but if sensitivity is an ongoing concern for you, spending extra on a targeted treatment can really help to tackle reactions and flare-ups.
Other treatment oils for sensitive skin include Balance Me Rose Otto Facial Oil (£32); Nourish Argan Skin Rescue Treatment (£21); The Body Shop Vitamin E Overnight Serum-in-Oil (£13)
HELEN TOPE
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