BEAUTY REVIEW 2014

For my first post of 2015, I’m keeping things simple. This is a review of beauty products I have discovered during the past 12 months. Some are new launches, others are old hands at the beauty game – but if it made a material difference to my skin, it made the list.

(L-R: The Body Shop Camomile Cleansing Butter, Tata Harper Regenerating Cleanser, REN No. 1 Purity Cleansing Balm)

Cleanser
As far as my skincare routine is concerned, 2014 has definitely been the year of the cleanser: balms, oils, creams and waters – I’ve tried a bit of everything. While I think that your formulation of choice should be between you and your beauty supplier, it’s really been brought home to me just how important a role cleansing plays in getting your skin to look and feel better.
I started with the classics: Liz Earle’s Cleanse and Polish (still a favourite) and REN’s Clear / Calm Clarifying Cleanser which made light work of any troublesome blemishes. However, as I got a little more comfortable with the concept of a non-foaming cleanser, I started to branch out into untried territory.
Up until very recently, I was not familiar with skincare expert and namesake brand, Tata Harper. Working in Vermont, she produces products that are completely free of synthetic and chemical ingredients. Non-toxic, plant-based technology forms the basis of the Tata Harper range – and these products pack a serious punch when it comes to performance.
On a chance recommendation, I tried the Tata Harper Regenerating Cleanser (£60). While it is most certainly the most expensive cleanser I have ever purchased, every time I use it I am further convinced that it is one of the best beauty products I’ve ever come across. Slightly gritty in texture, the Regenerating Cleanser contains apricot seed powder, pomegranate enzymes and willow bark – all of which combine to form an exfoliating, clarifying product mild enough to use every day. It doesn’t leave your skin feeling stripped: this cleanser neatly sloughs off dead skin cells, leaving behind fresh, glowing skin. The granular particles are so small they rinse away easily, making this ideal for a quick morning cleanse.
As you can tell, I’m definitely a convert – and if you fancy making regular cleansing one of your New Year’s Resolutions – this is an amazing place to start. Oh, and the aroma is absolutely incredible. You will be hooked.
Other favourite cleansers included: Rodial Dragon’s Blood Cleansing Water (£29), The Body Shop Camomile Cleansing Butter (£12)

Exfoliation
If you’ve got even a passing interest in beauty matters, you can’t have helped but notice that the mega, all-conquering moisturiser isn’t garnering as much attention as it used to. The concept of putting all your eggs in one beauty basket now seems a little old-fashioned; relying on one product to save your skin from a poor cleansing routine and non-existent use of exfoliators and masks.

(L-R: First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads, Murad AHA / BHA Exfoliating Cleanser)

We’re starting to recognise that the steps that lead up to the moisturiser are just as important – if not more so. A good skincare routine doesn’t need to be endless or overly complicated – using just a couple of good quality, high performance products can make a huge amount of difference.
If you’ve avoided exfoliating in the past, a new generation of exfoliants are determined to win you over. Eschewing the traditional scrub formula, these new exfoliants are non-granular and a cinch to use.
Whether as a liquid or in little product-soaked pads, the exfoliator as scrub is rapidly taking a back seat to these resurfacing, glow-getting miracle workers. If any product has made a material difference to the texture and appearance of my skin, it’s the FAB First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance pads (£20.50). Small but very effective, they can be swept over a cleansed skin and…that’s it. That’s about as tricky as it gets. The genius part of this type of exfoliation is that there are no excuses for getting on board: no gritty bits left in your hair; no worries about granules scratching a blemish and transferring infection; no mess, no fuss. There are definitely pricier exfoliator pads out there – but First Aid Beauty’s version is a good price for an extremely impressive product.
Other favourite exfoliators have included: Ole Henriksen Walnut Complexion Scrub (£26), Murad AHA / BHA Exfoliating Cleanser (£34)

Treatment oil
As someone with long-term combination skin which also leaned towards dehydration (despite mine and Evian’s best efforts), the concept of putting oil on my face still felt like a bridge too far. A treatment best left the reserve of dry skin.

(L-R: Trilogy Certified Organic Rosehip Oil, REN Vita Mineral Omega 3 Optimum Skin Serum Oil)

But my skincare routine, though adequate, had at this point reached an impasse. My skin wasn’t looking any worse, but it had stopped improving. A skincare rut is always tricky to manoeuvre your way out of: trying new products or application techniques require a leap of faith. I looked for recommendations, opinions. I researched, weighed my options and ended up trying the REN Vita Mineral Omega 3 Optimum Skin Oil (£23). It was an absolute revelation: calming and balancing my dehydrated skin without it ever feeling overloaded or overwhelmed. The oil texture was also a surprise: much lighter than I was expecting. It sank into my skin easily without leaving an oily residue – making it the perfect pre-moisturiser treatment.
The reason why oils work so harmoniously with our skin is that they are ‘lipophilic’: they are able to pass through the lipid (outermost) layer of your skin faster, plumping the skin with moisture more effectively. It’s also a great way of delivering highly-concentrated ingredients to your skin, using a texture that your skin will readily recognise and accept. A year ago I didn’t even know what ‘lipophilic’ meant….look at me now, kids. Look at me now.
Other favourite treatment oils included: Trilogy Certified Organic Rosehip Oil (£16.50 for 20ml), Weleda Soothing Facial Almond Oil (£14.95)

Moisturiser
While I have spent this year exploring new formulations, it never hurts to review the basics. I firmly believe that a good moisturiser doesn’t have to cost the earth: it’s a myth that expense always equals excellence.
I’ve tried mid-priced moisturisers for the most part – and have found a fairly decent product can be found for the £30 mark. While Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream was a very close contender for my favourite of the year, Murad’s Skin Perfecting Day Cream Age Reform SPF30 wowed me consistently and thoroughly.

(L-R: Embryolisse Lait-Creme Concentre, Korres Wild Rose Brightening Cream, Neal’s Yard Rose & Almond Night Cream)

It was so good I ended up cutting open the tube and scooping out the Murad-y goodness within so I didn’t miss out on a drop of fabulous product. It was the first moisturiser I have tried where the moisturiser went where it seemed most needed, meaning I ended up using less and less as time went on. At £39, Age Reform is not a budget buy, but not so outrageously expensive you’d have to live on baked beans for a month in order to afford it. This is the perfect middle-of-the-road product. The term ‘middle-of-the-road’ is often used in a derogatory way, but here I mean it to represent Age Reform’s best qualities.
It is not an extreme, anti-ageing moisturiser so packed with ingredients the skin gets overwhelmed and reacts with breakouts or sensitivity. It is has enough active ingredient to make a difference, but not at the expense of your skin’s general wellbeing. Age Reform’s moisturiser is perfectly balanced, and your skin cannot help but respond favourably. Containing lecithin to plump out the skin, and borage seed oil (an ingredient you’ll hear much more of in 2015), this moisturiser offers hydration that just feels damn good on the skin. There’s no other way to put it. A good moisturiser is hard to find – and when you find one as good as this, love it, appreciate it – it may be the best investment you’ll make all year.
Other favourite moisturisers have included: Neal’s Yard Remedies Rehydrating Rose and Almond Night Cream (£22.99 on Amazon), Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream (£24)

(L-R: Nip + Fab Dragon’s Blood Plumping Mask, Weleda Skin Food, Time Bomb Complexion Cocktail B12)

I spent 2014 getting to know brands and products that, a year ago, were completely unfamiliar to me. It really has been a year of discovery: turns out for me a good cleansing routine was the key to getting my skin under control. It was a total lightbulb moment for me – I had assumed my skincare routine was good because I did all the extras (masks, serums etc) but thorough cleansing was the thing my skin needed – and responded to – the most.
Your lightbulb moment may be different: a liquid exfoliant or fantastic treatment oil could be your key to better skin. I would urge you to explore: read reviews and blogs, listen to experts and then make up your own mind.
Thanks to advances in both plant and lab-based technology, changing up your skincare routine is less of a gamble than it used to be. There is still an element of trial and error, but it’s vital to be open to the formulations and textures that may suit you. The most exciting brands at the moment are breaking apart the old rules to treat skincare concerns speedily and effectively. It’s a big skincare world out there and there is a product and range somewhere that’s perfect for you: to put it simply, if you want to shake things up, there’s no better time than now.

HELEN TOPE

WINTER ESSENTIALS #3: SKIN SAVIOURS

There’s no doubt about it: when it comes to skincare, winter’s definitely labour intensive. Even if you’ve already got a good routine in place, you sometimes need the help of a trouble-shooter – a product that squares up to skincare problems and deals with them in no uncertain manner. Dryness, anti-ageing, lack of radiance – if any of these problems sound familiar, you need to get yourself a skin saviour.

Dryness
When it comes to the Liz Earle range, many will tell you that it’s the Cleanse and Polish that takes all the glory. Their famous hot-cloth cleanser (the original by which so many are measured) is still one of the highlights of the brand, but I would also urge you to give due time and consideration to their moisturisers too.
Their most recent release, Superskin Moisturiser (£39) is packed with botanicals. Armed with collagen-protecting extract, its blend of essential oils including neroli, lavender and chamomile are not just there for their charm: these hard-working botanical ingredients soothe and calm dry, sensitive skin while pomegranate flower extract protects your skin from environmental damage. Containing high levels of GLA (Gamma-linolenic acid – an Omega-6 fatty acid – if it comes up on University Challenge, you’ll look like a genius), this moisturiser improves skin elasticity and slows moisture loss. Liz Earle dubs this cream as being stock-full of ‘naturally active’ ingredients’ and they’re not kidding. It’s a great anti-ageing option for those who don’t feel their skin responds well to lab-based, chemical ingredients.
Satisfyingly rich in texture, this will make dry, winter-parched skin a distant memory. If you’ve always dreaded the colder months because your skin just can’t take it – slotting this moisturiser into your routine could be a real skin-saver.
Other products include: Weleda Iris Day Cream (£12.95), Trilogy Certified Organic Rosehip Oil (£16.50).

Anti-Ageing
This Works No Wrinkles Extreme Moisturiser (£46) – proof that anti-ageing skincare needn’t be scary – this ultra-effective, smoothing formula is so comforting and hydrating it doesn’t feel like a traditional anti-ager, and that’s precisely the point. Winner of the 2013 Beauty Bible Awards for Best Anti-Aging Product, this formula comes equipped with time-release retinol. This is important as retinol’s great at smoothing out those fine lines – but it can cause irritation if you get a big dose of it all at once. By slowly releasing over time, the retinol does the most good whilst minimising any potential for irritation or sensitivity. In short, it’s a win-win. This is impressive enough, but the Extreme Moisturiser doesn’t stop there. Combining the retinol with hyaluronic acid and Moringa oil, which improves skin hydration and nourishment, skin looks fresher, and feels supple. This is the ultimate hard-working multi-tasker, and with a companion product made especially for especially sensitive skin, This Works really have created a moisturiser that’s got something to offer everyone.
Other products include: Neal’s Yard Remedies Frankincense Intense Cream (£55), REN V-Cense Revitalising Night Cream (£32).

Dullness
Alpha H Liquid Gold Rejuvenating Cream (£51) – if your major skin concern is dullness (even with regular exfoliation) – this cream could give you a kick-start into a whole new world of glowy, dewy perfection. Well, a glowing version of your own skin, which is not exactly a bad place to start. This cream reinvigorates tired, sluggish skin accelerating cell turnover, revealing new, plumper, younger cells. Featuring antioxidant-rich Argan stem cells (which can help support the skin’s natural cycle of renewal and repair), the cream then gets decidedly fancy with the inclusion of Lipo-peptide Matrixyl-6 which stimulates your skin’s own production of hyaluronic acid – which is naturally and abundantly present in youthful skin (hence its plump, dewy appearance). So boosting your skin’s supply of hyaluronic acid is a surefire way of getting that fresh, vibrant look. If the festive season always leaves you feeling a bit lacklustre, this could be your secret weapon to looking daisy-fresh come the New Year.
Other products include: REN Keep Young and Beautiful Firming and Soothing Serum (£46), REN Flash Rinse 1 Minute Facial (£32).

Protection from the elements
If you’ve got dryness, dullness and anti-ageing all covered, and your main skincare concern over winter is weather-proofing, Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream Intensive Daily Moisturiser (£25.50) has got it all.
Using traditional skin protectants such as Vitamin E, this cult brand has created a moisturiser that’s up to the challenge of protecting even the driest skin – all without clogging pores or leaving a residue. If the concept of a ‘barrier cream’ worries you, the Eight Hour formula is substantial enough to stand up to the elements, but without being greasy or feeling weighty. The concept of intensive hydration has changed with advances in skincare technology: being a heavy-duty product no longer means being heavy-going.
Another major plus is that the 8 Hour Intensive Moisturiser comes equipped with PA+++ (Protection Grade of UVA) sun protection (SPF15) – ideal for protecting the skin against UVA rays. Winter suncare may seem like a contradiction in terms, but the ageing rays of the sun are ever-present, even when the thermometer’s nudging zero. Arming yourself with a quality protective product means not just weather-proofing your skin, but future-proofing it too. Nothing can stop the ageing process – but slowing it down – with the right products, and some skincare basics, this is totally achievable.
Other products include: Weleda Skin Food (£9.95), Embryolisse Lait-Creme Concentre Nourishing Moisturiser (£13).

That’s really the secret to dealing with winter: a little know-how and a kick-ass product. Don’t necessarily assume that the big brands will have all the answers either: tread a little off the beauty track, and there are great skincare brands out there that may not have the mega-bucks advertising campaigns behind them, but they have products that are packed with great ingredients and deliver on what they promise. Make 2015 the year you get better acquainted with the alternative face of the beauty industry: I did exactly this during 2014, getting to know brands and products that this time last year, were completely unfamiliar to me. I’ve learned a lot about what works for my skin (and what really doesn’t!). My skin is still far from perfect but it looks and feels much better for me stepping outside my comfort zone and trying something new. If you’re after a New Year’s resolution, I could not recommend it highly enough.

HELEN TOPE